PULQUE, or Palque Maguey: the common beverage of the central tableland of Mexico, corresponding in some respects to our beer, but generally containing a higher alcoholic percentage. It is obtained by the fermentation of the sweet liquid known as "Manso," produced by the Maguey, a plant belonging to the Amaryllis family ( which includes the Century Plant, etc.), which grows wild throughout all Mexico and Cen tral America. The best is that produced in the Mexican states of Hidalgo, Tlaxcala, Puebla and Mexico.
Just before the plant begins to flower, the upper leaves are cut off, the operation being called "capazon." This induces the sap to accumulate in the denuded stems. The secretion is further stimulated by the removal of the mucilaginous coating which forms in the hollow, the operation being called "raspa," and the hollow itself "cajete." The "cajete" is covered by a stone to preserve the liquid—which thus in its fresh state is called "Agua-miel," or honey-water. At the proper time the Agua-miel is pumped or sucked through a tube called "acocote," by men called "tlachiqueros," and passed into skins, generally pig-skins, as will be noted in the accompanying illustra tion. It goes next to large fermenting tanks, and is allowed to ferment until it becomes white and viscous and gives out a characteristic alcoholic odor, when it is known as Pulque. In that condition it contains from 4% to 8% alcohol.
Pulque must be drunk within a few days of making or the natural continuation of the ferment process spoils it. As a consequence, supplies for Mexico City, for example, are sent in daily by special trains, much as milk into American cities.
The unfermented liquor, A qua-mie/—a cool-looking yellowish beverage—is also consumed to a certain extent.
Mescal (or Mezcal) de Pulque, or Pulque Brandy, Tequila and Huila are distilled alcoholic' liquors, from the sap or the fleshy bases of several varieties of the Maguey.
Some effort has been made to intro duce Pulque in this country, in various forms for both medicinal and table use, but it has met with only a small degree of public favor.
To produce intoxication by drinking Pulque implies copious consumption because of its comparatively low percen tage of alcohol, but its abuse in Mexico has been increasing for many years, and public opinion is crystallizing against it. Those who defend its moderate use as sert that, in addition to its stimulating properties, it possesses highly valuable nutrients in its heavy azotic elements.
The first use of Pulque is lost in his torical mists—it was a popular beverage long before the first European set foot in Mexico. The ancient Toltec race had for generations made and consumed it.
The Maguey, left to its natural course, spends ten to fourteen years in obtaining mature growth, consisting then of from twenty to fifty huge succulent leaves surround ing a large fleshy base, a plant of good size weighing a ton or more. When fully devel oped, it sends up an enormous central flower stalk, often a foot in diameter and rang ing from twenty to fifty feet in height, crowned with a candelabra of greenish white blossoms. After the ripening of the seeds, the plant withers and dies, its first blossoms being also its last.
The fleshy bases of some varieties are a valued food in many parts of Mexico, and the big flower heads or buds, taken just before flowering, are enjoyed as a sweet pre serve after slow roasting and baking in furnaces or pits, changing during the process to a rich dark brown and becoming sticky with sugar. The buds often weigh from 100 to 200 pounds each and are retailed either entire or by separate leaves.