(1) Egyptian Dresses. There are two ideas which ought to be examined before we can justly ascertain the particulars of the bride's appearance: First, Was her dress correspondent to those of the East in general ? or, secondly, as she was an Egyp tian, was her dress peculiarly in the Egyptian taste ? To meet these inquiries we propose to offer a few remarks on the peculiarities of Egyp tian dress, presuming that some such might belong to the dress worn by this lady ; and indeed, that these are what give occasion to the admiration of the ladies of the Jerusalem harem, who, observing her magnificent attire, compliment every part of that attire as they proceed to inspect it in the following order. (See the notes in illustration of the FIFTH DAY.) (2) Sandals. (See figure on page 363.) (3) Selvedges of Thy Thigh AnpareI. \Ve have already examined the import of this word. If we look at the accompanying figure we shall find that in front of the drapery, which descends down the thigh from the waist to the ankle, that is to say, where the edges of the drapery meet in front, is a handsome border of open-work; this is very distinct, and it answers exactly to the de scription and words used to denote it in the poem; it is (I) at the return—the selvedge—of the drapery ; (2) it appertains to the thigh and accompanies it like a petticoat ; (3) it is pinked, or open-worked, into a pattern, which has evi dently cost great labor ; the performance of ex cellent hands! This figure is truly Egyptian, for it is from the Isiac Table. \Ve find the same kind of ornament worn by Grecian ladies, but on the outside of the thigh, as ap pears in the Hamilton vases.
Whether we read returning edge, selvedge, or front bord ers, etc., of this drapery, is in different to the idea here stated.
(4) Thy Girdle Clasp. (See figure on page 363.) (5) Bodice, body vest. (See figure on page 363.) (6) Nipples. Observe that the Egyptian figure above has the breast and nipple entirely naked, and has a kind of neck inger, which crosses the bosom and is brought between the breasts, so that the wearer might have covered the breast had she pleased; but the breast itself is left—as if carefully left—uncovered in all these figures ; we presume, therefore, that this was anciently a cus tomary mode of dress, rendered necessary by the heat of the country. It appears on various mum mies and on many other Egyptian representa tions. Sonnini says (vol. iii, p. 204) : "The Egyp tian women have no other clothing than a long shift, or jacket, of blue cloth, with sleeves of an extraordinary size. This manner of dressing themselves by halves, so that the air may circu late over the body itself and refresh every part of it, is very comfortable in a country where close or thick habits would make the heat intoler able." \Ve must not judge of the propriety of Egyptian costumes by the necessary defenses against the variations and chills of northern cli mates. The reader will observe the head-dress in this figure ; the hair, which we presume is meant to represent curls; the pec toral, the covering of the bosom; the petticoat, its border, ornaments, etc.
7. Bride's Dress.
This figure represents an Oriental lady in full dress, from Le Bruyn.
(1) Head-Dress. The reader will observe the head-dress, which con sists of a cap set with pearls in various forms, the center hanging over the forehead. On the top of this cap rise a number of sprigs of jewelry work, which imitate, in pre cious stones, the natural colors, etc., of the flow ers they are meant to represent. The stems arc made of gold or silver wires, and the leaves, we suppose, are made of colored foil. We saw, in the former plate, that Egyptian ladies wore a high-rising composition of ornaments; and we see in this figure a composition little, if at all, less aspiring. In fact, then, this head-dress ren ders very credible the idea of our translators, "thy head-dress upon thee is like Carmel!"— whether, by Carmel, we understand Mount Car mel, in which case the allusion may be to the trees growing on it ; or, as the word signifies, o fruitful field, whose luxuriant vegetation dis plays the most captivating abundance.
(2) Jewels. From the cap of this head-dress hangs a string of pearls, which, passing under the chin, surrounds the countenance. We observe also on the neck a collet of gems and three rows of pearls. These arc common in the East ; and something of this nature, we presume, is what the bridegroom alludes to when he says (Eclogue ii. in the First Day) : "Thy cheeks are bright, or splendid, with bands, thy neck with collets," meaning bands of pearls surrounding the counte nance and glistening on the cheeks; and collets of gems, or other splendid or shining substances, disposed as embellishments. Observe also the ornaments suspended by a gold chain, which hangs from the neck. These, though not, strictly speaking, girdle-clasps, yet have much the same effect in point of decoration, and are composed of precious stones, including, no doubt, rubies, 'rich in mingled wine." Observe the rings worn on the fingers; the wrist-bands of the vest, the flow ers brocaded on it, on the veil, etc.
(3) Dressing of the Hair. The figure also shows distinctly the difference between locks and tresses of hair. The locks are those which hang loosely down the temples and cheek ; the tresses are those braids which naturally hang down the back, but which, in order to show their length, are in this instance brought forward over the shoulder. The reader will observe how these are plaited. Now, this mode of dressing the hair seems to have little allusion to the color of pur ple, or to require purple-colored ribands, or rib ands of any color. It may rather be fancied to resemble a mode of weaving, such as might be practised at Arech or Erech, whence it might be denominated Arechmen, that is, "from the city of Areeh;" and, could this be admitted, we should perhaps find something like the following ideas in this passage: "Thy head-dress is a diffuse, spread ing appearance, like vegetation and flowers (q. chenillel)" "Thy tresses are close, compact. stuck together like an intimately woven or worked texture," say a carpet, diaper, calico, etc.