It is true this figure shows only a few tresses, but we ought to extend our conception to a much greater number, for Lady Montague says: "I never saw, in my life, so many fine heads of hair. In one lady's I have counted a hundred and ten tresses, all natural." Now, what numerous intri cacies, meanderings, convolutions, etc., would a hundred and ten tresses furnish by dexterous plaiting! And as long hair, capable of such orna mental disposition, was esteemed a capital part of personal beauty, how deeply, how inextricably, was the king—his affection—entangled in such a labyrinth of charms, adorned in the most becom ing manner and displayed to the greatest advan tage! The sex has always been proud of this natural ornament; and when art and taste have well ar ranged it, all know that its effects are not incon siderable. The reader will recollect that we have already stated embarrassments on the subject of the word Aregamen. We have taken some pains to examine passages where it occurs; but we can not acquiesce in the opinion that it means purple; that is, the color of purple only. Nevertheless, as all the dictionaries, and lexicons, and concord ances are against us, we suspend our determina tion.
(4) Sandals. There is a figure in Sandys which shows the sandals not only adorned with flowers wrought on them, hut which, be ing sandals o n I y, permit t h c whole foot to be seen ; and being heighteners, they make the wear er seem so much taller than otherwise she would b e that the bridegroom may well compare his bride to a palm tree, up to whose top he desires to climb that he may procure its fruit (Cant. vii:8).
This figure also shows an ornament around the ankle, and a girdle, perhaps of silver embroidery.
(5) Vest. This engraving is from "Estampes the Levant," a n d will assist to illus trate the compar ison which our translation renders, "thy belly is a heap of wheat set about with lilies." In the first place, instead of heap, read sheaf of wheat. Secondly, for belly, read bod ice, or vest; that is the covering of the belly. Thirdly, for set about, read bound about, or tied up with a band of lilies. In short, the comparison is a vest of gold tissue, tied up with a broad girdle of white satin, or of silver tissue, like that of this figure, to a sheaf of wheat standing on its end, and tied around its middle by a broad band of lilies, twisted into itself, whose heads would naturally hang down loosely, like the end of the girdle of this figure. Having given the above as our idea of this comparison, it may be proper to say that if the words set about be abso lutely retained, then the silver flowers on this ground of gold tissue may answer that idea ; but this does not appear to be so correct a translation.
We may be allowed also to observe how entirely this explanation removes every indelicacy to which our translation is exposed ; and how greatly it is recommended by its simplicity.
(0) Oriental Ladies' Dress. This investiga tion of the bride's dress may be closed with propriety by the following description of a dress worn by lady Montague as given by herself : also. that of the fair Fatima, of whom she says, "She was dressed in a caftan of gold brocade, flowered with silver, very well fitted to her shape, and showing, to admiration, the beauty of her bosom, only shaded by the thin gauze of her shift. Her drawers were pale pink, her waistcoat green and silver ; her slippers white satin, finely cmbroid ered : her lovely arms adorned with bracelets of diamonds and a broad girdle set around with diamonds; upon her head a rich Turkish hand kerchief of pink and silver, her own fine black hair hanging a great length in various tresses; and on one side of her head some bodkins of jewels.
"When I took my leave, two maids brought in a fine silver basket of embroidered handkerchiefs; she begged I would wear the richest for her sake, and gave the others to my woman and inter pretess." (The dud!, love-favors, of our poem, passim.) "The first part of my dress is a pair of drawers; very full, that reach to my shoes, and conceal the legs more modestly than your petticoats. They are of a thin, rose-colored damas:!, brocaded with silver flowers. My shoes are of white kid leather, embroidered with gold. Over this hangs my smock, of a fine white silk gauze, edged with embroidery. This smock has wide sleeves, hang ing half way down the arm, and is closed at the neck with a diamond button ; but the shape and color of the bosom are very well to be distin guished through it.
"The antery is a waistcoat. made close to the shape, of white and gold damask, with very long sleeves falling back, and fringed with deep gold fringe, and should have diamond or pearl but tons.
"My caftan, of the same stuff with my drawers, is a robe exactly fitted to my shape, and reaching to my feet, with very long. straight, falling sleeves. Over this is my girdle, of about four fingers broad, which all that can afford it have entirely of diamonds and other precious stones. Those who will not be at that expense have it of exquisite embroidery on satin : but it must be fastened before with a clasp of diamonds.
"The curdee is a loose robe they throw off, or put on, according to the weather, being of a rich brocade, (mine is green and gold), either lined with ermine or sables; the sleeves reach very little below the shoulders.