WEAVING, the art of making threads into cloth. This art is of very ancient origin. The fabulous story of Penelope's web; and, still more, the frequent allu sions to this art in the sacred writings, tend to show, that the constructing of cloth from threads, hair, &c. is a very an cient invention. It has, however, like other useful arts, undergone an infinite va riety of improvements, both as to the ma terials of which cloth is made, the appa ratus necessary in its construction, and the particular modes of operation by the artist. Weaving, when reduced to its original principle, is nothing more than the insertion of the weft into the web, by forming sheds ; but this , principle has been so extensively applied in almost eve ry country, and the knowledge of its va rious branches has been derived from such a variety of sources, that no one per son could ever be practically employed in all its branches ; and though every part bears a strong analogy to the rest, yet a minute knowledge of each of these parts can only be acquired by experience and reflection. We will, however, en deavour to give the reader as comprehen sive an idea of the history and progress of this ancient and invaluable art as the nature of the thing, and the limits to which we are necessarily confined will permit.
The history of this art is very little known, and its great antiquity necessarily involves the earlier wras of it in the most perfect obscurity. Enough, however, is known, to prove that none of the species of it originated in Britain. The silk ma nufacture was first practised in China, and the cotton in India. Both the woollen and linen were borrowed from the conti nent of Europe, and all improvements in them, in this country, were first introduc ed by foreign artificers who settled amongst us. To the present day, our su periority in point of quality is only uni versally acknowledged in the cotton ma nufacture; whilst in those of silk, wool len, and linen, it is still disputed by other countries. But it should be understood, that we are here speaking more particu larly of the art in its more advanced and improved state. Fur, when it is consi dered, that as the wants of mankind are nearly the same in all countries, it is not improbable that the same arts, however varied in their operations, may have been invented in different countries. It is not, however, certain, that the art of making cloth is one which the invented.
It is more probable, that the Gauls learn ed it from the Greeks, and communicated the it to the people of Bri tain. And it is certain that the inhabi tants of the southern parts of Britain were well acquainted with the arts of dressing, spinning and weaving, both flax and wool, when they were invaded by the Ro mans.
The art of making linen, which was probably the first species of cloth invent ed, was communicated by the Egyptians, the inhabitants of Palestine, and other eastern nations, to the Europeans. By slow degrees it found its way into Italy ; and it afterwards prevailed in Spain, Gaul, Germany, and Britain. The Belgx ma nufactured linen on the continent ; and when they afterwards settled in this is land, it is probable they continued the the practice, and taught it to the people among whom they resided.
Whatever knowledge the Britons might possess of the clothing arts, prior to the invasion, it is very certain that these arts were much improved amongst them after that event. It appears from the Notitia Imperil, that there was an imperial manu factory of woollen and linen cloth, for the use of the Roman army then in Britain, established at Yenta Belgarum, now call ed Winchester.
In Bishop Aldhelm's book, concerning " Virginity," written about A. D. 680, it is remarked, " that chastity alone forms not a perfect character ; but requires to be accompanied and beautified by other virtues." This observation is illustrated by the following simile, borrowed from the art of figure-weaving : " It is not a web of one uniform colour and texture, without any variety of figures, that plea sed] the eye, and appears beautiful ; but one that is woven by shuttles, filled with threads of purple, and many other co lours flying from side to side, and forming a variety of figures and images in differ ent compartments with admirable art." Perhaps the most curious specimen of this ancient figure-weaving and embroidery, now to be found, is that preserved in the cathedral of Bayeaux. It is a piece of li nen, about 19 inches in breadth, and 67 yards in length, and contains the history of the conquest of England, by William of Normandy ; beginning with Harold's em bassy, A. D. 1065, and ending with his death at the battle of Hastings, A. D. 1066. This curious work is supposed to have been executed by Matilda, wife to William, Duke of Normandy, afterwards King of England, and the ladies of her court.