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Hind Kimkhab

gold, hemru and silver

KIMKHAB, HIND., corruptly Kincob, a fabric of silk with gold or silver in woven pattern ; silk brocade, worked in gold and silver flowers. The costly and superb fabrics of cloths of gold and silver or the kimkbab, and the classes of washing satins or mushru and hemru, even if European skill could imitate them by the hand-loom, it would be impossible to obtain the gold and silver thread unless it were imported from India. The native mode of making this thread is known, but the result achieved by the Indian workman is simply the effect of skilful, delicate manipulation. The kimkhabs are used for state dresses and trousers, the latter by men and women ; and ladies of rank usually possess petticoats or skirts of these gorgeous fabrics. Kimkhab, although only employed in India as articles for personal wear, might be used in Britain for covering chairs, couches, etc. The origin of the word kimkhab is said to be from Kum (Kam), little, and Khab, sleep. Kimkhab, hemru, luppa, tas, are all of the same order of manufacture, gold, or gold and silver, and silk. In the kimkhab, metal predominates, whereas in hemru the silk pre dominates, and in hemru the design is generally a diaper or buta-dar. Affixes of single and double

are also made use of to designate one colour or several, such as ekowdu hemru, and bewdu hemru. In Surat it is known as kumjurno aleeacha, which means that there is only a small quantity of gold thread used in it. Luppa has so much gold or silver that the metal only is visible. Tas is much thinner, but is manufactured in the same manner. 3Iushru and hemru are not used for tunics, but for men's and women's trousers, and women's skirts, , as also for covering bedding and pillows ; they are very strong and durable fabrics, wash well, and preserve their colour however long worn or roughly used ; but they can hardly be compared with English satins, which, however, if more delicate in colour and texture, are un fitted for the purposes to which the Indian fabrics are applied. For example, a labada or dressing gown made in 1842, of scarlet mushru, was washed over and over again, and subjected to all kinds of rough usage, yet the satin in 1862 was still unfrayed, arid the colour and gloss as bright as ever. See Clothing ; Embroidery ; Gold Em broidery.