The coloured cotton stuffs are prepared in different ways, all of which are as simple and rude as the previous processes. The most common method, formerly, was for the dyer and his family to wear next their skin, for a week °remora, the cotton cloths as they came from the bleach field. The next steps were to macerate them in water, im pregnated with goats' dung ; to wash them frequently in pure water ; and to expose them to the noon-day sun. They were next soaked in buffalo's milk, curdled by some astringent plant, and were again exposed to the sun. After these preparations, and having been rendered smooth by presure and friction, they were ready for the mordaunts. These consisted chiefly of a liquor, made by dissolving iron in sour palm wine, and of rice-water. Such parts of the cotton cloth as were intended to be figured or spotted black were washed with these mordaunts. The next mor daunt was alum-water, applied to the places which were to be red, generally by children. The pieces were then ex posed to the hottest sunshine, in order that the parts in which these mordaunts had been used might be rendered thoroughly dry. Before the dying process was performed, they were freed from all the impurities that the buffaio's milk, &c. might have left in them, by being soaked in pita of water.
The following is an account of the modern practice, as it was communicated to Mr. Parkes by a gentleman who had spent sonic time in India. " The finest chintz counter panes, which the natives call palampons, are manufactured at Madras. These are woven in one piece, from two to four yards square ; and are printed, or rather painted, with various designs, and in various colours. Their method is, to draw their pattern first on sheets of paper sewn toge ther, of the size of the intended palampon, and then to prick out the same in the paper with a sharp instrument. This done, the paper pattern is smoothly fixed upon the cloth, which is previously damped, and ^ small muslin fag, con taining some kind of black powder, is rubbed over the whole, in order to force a part of the powder through the pin holes, and completely mark out the pattern.
" The pattern being thus sketched upon the cloth, the paper is removed; and when the outline of the various fi gum es is drawn with a pencil, the piece is considered to be ready for meek Mg the cutout% " One colour is then laid on with a brush, made with a tough root of a particular kind of tree, or with the husk of the cocoa-nut ; and when this dries, the piece of cotton is given to a woman to wear, or to use in the family, till it he very much dirtied, in order that it might necessarily un dergo a thorough washing, which is thought requisite to prove the goodness and permanency of the colour. Ano ther colour is then laid on in the same manner, and the piece is again submitted to the same trial of wearing and washing. This is repeated for every colour that is em ployed ; and when any one of these colours is found to be deteriorated by this treatment, it is printed afresh, and so are all the rest, till the workman is satisfied that all the co lours are actually permanent.
This tedious process is adopted, however, only when the manufacturer means to warrant the article ; but in all cases, even in those pieces which will not bear washing, the colours arc laid on by a brush, as before mentioned."— Parkes' Chemical Essays, vol. ii. p. 94-98.
In some cases, children are employed, after the outline is drawn, in putting on the principal colours ; but the shades and more delicate parts arc executed by the most skilful workmen, the cloth being extended on a small oat row ta ble. The brushes and pencils employed, and mentioned in the extract from Mr. Parkes, are made either of the fibres of the rhind of the cocoa-nut, beaten so as to give it the ap pearance of horse hair ; (this is very elastic, and therefore answers the purpose very well,) or they are made, in those cases which require a firmer and finer point, of a piece of hamboo split. A little cotton-wool is fixed about an inch above the extremity to retain the colour, ;did this the workman presses to make the colour descend to the pencil.
We are not acquainted with the nature of all the dyes which the Indians employ ; but some of them are well known. The indigo is the principal. The Romans were acquainted with the deep blue colour of this dye, and gave it the name of Indicum. By them it was held in high es timation. It is mentioned, under the name of Indicum ni grum, among the articles of importation Irmo India, in the Periplus of the Erythrcan Sea. The red and the blue are the colours of must conspicuous lustre and beauty iu the cotton and silk stuffs received from India at present ; and this seems to have been the case in the time of the an cients, for Indian dyers was the ancient name of those who dyed either of these colours with great perfection and deli cacy. The source of the blue colour has been just men tioned. The red is dyed principally by means of gum lac. This also was known to the ancients. Ctesias appears to have learnt pretty accurately the nature of tbe insect which produces it ; and he expresses his admiration at the beauty of the colour which it produces. The insect which sup plies the gum lac is found on a tree called bihar in As sam, a country to the north-east of Bengal ; on a tree call ed jala, growing on many of the hills in the Rajah of My sore's terrritories ; and in other parts of India. There are also some flowers, roots, and fruits, which are em ployed to dye red ; but the red of the gum lac is the most delicate and beautiful. The semecarpus anacardium, or marking nut, which is a native of all the mountainous re gions of India, is used for giving a durable black stain to the cotton cloth ; and a yellow dye is supplied by the curcuma, or Indian saffron.