"The Glacis, the circular space of ground which, as before stated, stretches out immediately from the foot of the ramparts, and encircles the city, except where the walls are washed by the atm of the Danube, is," to use the words of a modern traveller, " no longer the naked and cheerless stripe which it used to be. Much of it has been formed into gardens belonging to different branches of the imperial family; the whole has been gradually planted and laid out into alleys; and in 1822 the emperor, in his love for his subjects, allowed a cof fee-house to be built among the trees. Beyond the Glacis, the ground in general rises; and along these eminences stretch the suburbs of Vienna, surround ing the city like the outworks of some huge forti fication, and finally surrounded themselves by a brick wall, a mere instrument of police, to ensure the detection of radical and contraband goods, by subjecting every thing and every person to a strict examination." (Russell's Tour in Germany, ii. 250.) The suburbs occupy more ground than the old city, partly because cultivated fields or large gardens occasionally intervene; they are also more irregularly built; but the houses are in general distinguished by great elegance. Most of them are private property; and most of the wealthy and most distinguished persons connected with the city, such as Prince Lichtenstein and Prince Esterhazy, have residences there, like palaces, with gardens and picture galleries. These suburbs, 34 in number, are known by different names, and are of all differ ent sizes; the Leopoldstadt, situated on an island, is the largest, containing 600 houses; while the small est contain only eleven houses. The streets in the suburbs arc either not paved at all, or ill paved; on which account clouds of dust and sand, when a high wind prevails, envelope the whole city.
The ramparts have already been mentioned as forming a public walk. But the most celebrated place of this kind is the Prater, which has been characterised as the finest public park in Europe. "It has more rural beauty than Hyde Park; and surely the more varied and natural arrangement of its woods and waters is preferable to the formal basins and alleys of the garden of the Thuilleries." (Tour in Germany, ii, 254.) It is situated in the Leopoldstadt. It is bounded on three sides by wa ter. It consists of a thick forest of oaks, elms, and chesnuts, diverging into five alleys. and opening into several lawns of fine turf. Coffee-houses are erected along the walks. The Augarten, another place of public resort, is contiguous to the Prater. The Brigitten-au is another agreeable walk; but neither of them can stand comparison with the one we have just been describing. It may here be stated that, in addition to these walks, the inhabi tants of Vienna frequent the theatres, of which there are five; two in the city, and three in the suburbs; hut the dramatic art has not yet attained to great perfection in this capital. As connected with the amusements of the people, we may also men tion that the number of amount to 70, the taverns and ordinaries to 300.
The public buildings of Vienna, though any thing but splendid, must not be passed over in si lence. The Bourg., an imperial palace, is undoubt
edly the finest edifice in the city. Having been built at different periods, its exterior presents an irregular whimsical appearance, unworthy of a pa lace. The emperor inhabits that part of it called the Schweitzenhof. But though in its outward characteristics, it is not elegant, its interior is high ly interesting, containing collections more valuable, it has been supposed, than any other of a similar in Europe. Among other articles, are men tioned a great many bronze figures, statues, and jewels of different kiwis, 500 Etruscan vases, 400 ancient lamps, 32,000 gold and silver medals. In the immediate neighbourhood of the palace, are the imperial chancery and the imperial library. The other public buildings are the mint, the bank, the university, the war-office, the assembly-room, called the Hall of Apollo, and said to be capable of containing 10,000 people; the Belvidere, a palace built by Prince Eugene, now the property of the Emperor, chiefly remarkable for its gallery of va luable paintings. In one of the public buildings, namely, the town arsenal, is preserved the head of Mustapha, who commanded the Turkish army at the blockade of Vienna in 1683, and who was strangled at Belgrade in the following year. The number of elegant private houses is very great, though such houses are not unfrequently placed in the very neighbourhood of the residences of the poorer classes. Vienna can boast among its per manent inhabitants of 20 princes, 70 counts, and 50 barons.
With regard to churches, the three principal are those of St. Peter, St. Augustine, and St. Stephen. The first is huilt after the model of the famous one of the same name at Rome; the second con tains the most interesting monument in Vienna, that erected to the memory of the Arch-duchess Maria Christina by her husband, and consi dered one of the master-pieces of Canova, by whom it was execilted. St. Stephen's, the largest church in the Austrian dominions, is the metropo litan one: it was built in the 13th century, is 340 feet in length, 220 in breadth, and 80 in height. The tower is considered as 430 above the ground: it supports a bell weighing 18 tons, made of the cannon taken from the Turks after they were forced to raise the siege of Vienna. The only other churches deserving of notice are those of St. Charles, the most regular in the city, and St. Mi chael's. The whole number, exclusive of private chapels, is fifty-seven, twenty in the old city, and thirty-seven in the suburbs.
As connected with the church, the charitable in stitutions naturally come to be considered; and they are numerous, richly endowed, and well kept. The infirmary, situated in the suburbs, contains 2000 beds, and is remarkable for the cleanliness of its management. There is a military hospital, as also hospitals for foundlings, orphans, and aged persons. There is a work-house, a receptacle for vagrants not accused of any crime, an institution for the deaf and dumb, lying-in-hospitals, &c. Men dicity is not permitted.