MCKAY Sewen (or simply "McKay"). — A method of shoe making named for the Inventor. The upper is lasted over an innersole. the last is then removed, and the outsole is sewed on by a thread which goes straight through from the outside, catching the upper and innersole, with the seam showing on the inside. The outsole, is usually channeled It will be noted that no meaurements are given regarding the toes of lasts. It has been said that all the fitting is done back of the ball of the foot; you can do what you Please with the toe of a last." It is true that a great many molifications of toe shapes are made, while retaining the standard measurements of the other parts of the last.
as with a welt sole, and pasted back over the seam. A sock lining is put in the shoe to cover the inside seam.
Comparison with the welt method will show that this is a simpler plan, but it has the disadvantage of being less easy to repair. The McKay machine was one of the first sole-stitching machines used. Its introduction cheapened the making of medium-priced shoes and it is still used to a considerable extent. The welt process has been much improved and facilitated within the past few years, some what to the disadvantage of McKays. (See Turn, also Welt.) Micrsuiticsezerr.— The measuring of the foot for special cus tom orders is an art which requires practical experience.
Fine custom shoemaking is almost a negligible quantity in this country, except in large cities. A considerably greater proportion of custom-made shoes is to be found in both }Prance and England. The principal points of measure ments are the ball, waist, instep, anlde, and total length. Size sticks are constructed which give these details. (See illustration .under Last.) In some cases special single pair shoes can be secured from the factory which will meet the needs of a difficult customer.
Mums° SHOES.— Heavy, hobnailed, oil-grain working shoes for miners.
Moue/mg.— A heelless shoe made with a single piece of soft leather turned up at the edges as the sole, this being stitched directly to a low upper with a saddle seam. In some there is no upper, the sole being drawn over the foot with thoLls. A recent innovation is the use of a low wedge h in connection with the moccasin sole. This shoe was invented by the North American Indians. the name being from the Algonquin language. It is the char acteristic Indian shoe. Modified forms, with to ankle high, or higher, are used in the snows of winter by Northern lumbermen. The "shoe pack" and "larrigan" are modifications.