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Textile Designing

threads, cloth and pattern

TEXTILE DESIGNING. This term is used for the designing of textiles in which the pattern is obtained in the weaving and not by subsequent printing. The simplest patterns are in stripes and checks. By running 5 or 10 white threads and 5 or 10 gray threads alter nately in the warp, stripes would be made. If the same thing was done also with the weft or filling, a checkered pattern would result. In arranging a pattern the designer first considers the weight of cloth desired and calculates what size of thread or °yarn" he will use, and how many threads there will be to the inch. He usually bases his design on the inch. Having an intimate knowledge of the loom harness, which determines the arrangement of the threads or °weave,° he knows its limitations and just what combinations are practicable. If he uses a plain weave, in which the threads interlace alternately, it is very easy to design checks and plaids. He may decide to use the twill, in which the shuttle carries the woof threads over one and under two or more warp threads. By carrying this twill principle a little farther, he may produce a diagonal cloth. If

he is dealing with silk, and wants a glossy surface, he may decide on a satin weave, which reduces the number of crossings of warp and weft, permitting a close texture and a glossy finish on one side. Successful designs deter mine largely the stability of the cloth, for users judge a fabric mainly by the effect at first sight. The patterns must be harmonious or with artistic contrasts to please the various tastes. To sell at certain prices, they must have definite weights per yard, as buyers of large quantities will require 10, 12, 14, etc., ounces to the yard. The designing of silk, linen, wool and other fabrics involves many differences, which must be thoroughly under stood. And carpet and rug designing is a different business, requiring complete knowl edge of their manufacture. The designers of rugs try to imitate the higher priced hand-made rugs from the Orient, and often succeed ad mirably. Consult Beaumont, 'Color in Woven Design' (new ed., 1912). See WEAVING.