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Toga

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TOGA is the name given to the principal outer garment worn by the Romans. The ltomans generally wore the same kind of dress as the other Italian nations and the Greeks ; the toga alone is by some writers said to have been derived from the Lydian, but this statement probably arose from the belief that the Etruscans had come from Lydia ; and that at least a particular kind of toga (the toga prcrtexte) was introduced at Rome at a very early time from Etruria, is expressly stated. (Livy, 1. 8; Pliny,' Hist. Nat.,' viii. 74.) In later times the toga was the peculiar garment of the Romans, which in times of peace they wore both at home and abroad, and whenever they appeared in full dress. Hence they are called yens legate (Virgil,' aEn.,' L 232) and togati (Sallust, Jugurth.; 21), in contradistinction from other nations. The name " top" was, according to Varro (` De Ling. Lat.; iv. p. 33, ed. Bipont), derived from tegere, " to cover," because it covered the whole body. Genius (vii. 12) states that in early times it was the only article of dress that was worn, but afterwards we know that it was worn over other dresses. The right of wearing it was the exclu sive privilege of Roman citizens of every age and sex. (Serviira, Ad. /En.; i. 282.) Slaves, foreigners. and Romans sent into exile were not allowed to wear it. (Pliny, Epist,' iv. 11 ; Herat., iii. 5,10.) The peculiarity of the toga as a Roman dress is also indicated by the circumstance that comedies in which Romans appeared on the stage and were represented with their native costume, were called " togatte," to distinguish them from Orcek comedies. As the toga covered the whole body with the exception of the left arm, it could not be worn by a person while at work either at home or in the field. (Juvenal, 171 ; Livy, iii. 28.) The material of which the toga was made was woollen cloth, which differed in thickness and fineness according to circumstances and the seasons. Under the empire, persons of rank used to have their togas made of silk. The colour was usually white—probably the natural colour of the wool. Those who appeared before the people as candi dates for a public office, wore a particularly white and clean toga (candida), whence they derived their name of candidates (candidate). On festive occasions, too, It was considered a matter of importance that the toga should be perfectly white. (Horst, Sat,' ii. 2, 60 ; Cicero, ' In Vatin.; 13.) On melancholy occasion the Romans wore the toga Pula, or "dark-coloured toga." (Cicero, In Vatin.,' 13;

In Verr.; iv. 24). Towards the end of the republic, and under the empire, the toga, especially that worn by the emperors, was of a purple colour, and was called trabea. This custom appears to have been introduced by Julius Creme. (Cicero, ' Philip.,' ii. 34; Servius, Ad vii. 612.) As early as the time of Augustus, many Romans bad left. off wearing the toga, and taken to a kind of cloak called lacerna. This induced the emperor, who was fond of restoring ancient customs, to enjoin the rcdiles to ace that no Roman should appear in the forum or circus without the toga. (Sueton., 'Aug.,' 40.) The toga during the empire continned to be the honourable dress which was worn by persons of rank, RH senators, judges, priests, and by clients when they saluted their patrons or received the sportula (Martial, xiv. 125), and especially on all occasions where the emperor was present.

The mode or fashion of wearing the toga appears to have been variously modified In the course of time, although the general charac ter always remained the same. A great difference seems to have existed in the quantity of cloth used for it, as some statues present a richer drapery than others. Its form appears to have been rounded, but respecting that and the manner of putting it on, nothing can be said with certainty, notwithstanding the description in Quinctiliali (xi. 3, 137, &c.) and the many statues with togas eti]l extant. (Ferns rills and Rubanius, ' De Ito Vestiariil; ' Becker, Gallus; ii.) Besides the different kinds of togas we have mentioned above, the following must be noticed : 1. Toga was worn by the children of the nobles, by girls until they married, and by boys until they attained the age of puberty (fourteen), when they exchanged it for the to5a 1 helix, also called pure, libera, or which was the usual white toga described above. The prwtexta was also the official robe of the higher magistrates of the city and the municipia, as well as of the colonies. The name prwtesta was derived from the circumstance of this toga being adorned with a broad purple border (lotus darns).

2. Toga pieta was a toga ornamented with embroidery end gold according to the Etrnscan fashion. It was worn by generals in their triumph, whence it was also called toga Capitolina. During the empire it was also worn by the consuls and prxtors when they were present at the public games.