MOITNTING AND BURNISHING THE PRINTS.
prints can be mounted as soon as they are washed, or the mounting may be deferred to some subsequent time. In the former case the prints should be taken directly from the water and laid one above the other, face down, on a sheet of glass, and all the surplus water should be squeezed out of them. The hand iest thing for doing this is a small rubber roller, which can be procured of dealers in these materials. If the prints have been allowed to dry after washing them, they will, of course, need to be thoroughly moistened again by soaking in water.
A good paste for mounting prints can be made ,by soaking about one-half ounce of common laundry starch in one ounce of cold water for say half an hour, and then adding to this two ounces of boiling hot water, and immediately stirring the mixture. This paste will not keep, but should be used the same day that it is made. A paste that will keep, which will answer for mount ing photographs and for various other purposes for which a paste is required, can be made in the following way: Take about two ounces of common laundry starch and two ounces of water, and stir these together in a saucepan until it is like a thick cream; add to this one pint of hot water and about seventy-five grains sheet gelatine, cut into small pieces, and stir these together well, and let them boil on the stove for six or eight minutes, and then set it to cool. Now measure out one ounce of alcohol and about fifteen drops of ordinary diluted carbolic acid, which should be added to the paste before it has become entirely cold. If strong carbolic acid is used the quantity should only be about one-third of the above. This paste should be kept in a wide-mouth bottle well corked.
Now to return to our prints. With a bristle brush, a brush about one inch wide is a convenient size, we apply the paste to the back of the uppermost print, taking pains to distribute the paste evenly over the whole surface, especially at the edges and corners. If any pieces of grit or hard substances should be seen in the paste they may be removed with the blade of a penknife, Now, raise one edge of the print carefully with the knife blade, and, taking the print in both hands, lay it upon the cardboard as smoothly as possible at an equal distance from all sides. Upon
this lay a sheet of clean blotting paper, and with a circular motion lightly go over this with the hand, pressing the print to its place, taking care that it adheres at the edges and corners. Then the card should be placed on edge to dry After mounting albumen prints, and before burnishing them, any light or white spots caused by opaque spots in the negative should be " spotted out." To do this we prepare a solution of Water, one ounce.
Alcohol, one dram.
Gum arabic, sixty grains. Glycerine, fifteen drops. Ox-gall, ten grains.
Dissolve these, and keep in a two ounce bottle.
Mix the colors on a paint slab or saucer to match exactly the tint of the print, using a few drops of the above solution to moisten the paints. With carmine, Prussian blue and neutral tint, any shade can be matched. Apply this very delicately and carefully -with a fine-pointed brush.
When the prints are almost dry they can be burnished. The burnishing iron should be heated and kept hot during the burnish ing, about the same heat as a flat iron in ironing clothes. Care must be taken to keep the polished surface of the burnisher bright and dean. When the iron is hot enough the .prints should be lightly rubbed with a glacd polish, which is sold for this purpose, and is applied with a small wad of flannel. Then the prints should be passed through the burnisher two or three times, the burnisher being so adjusted that the pressure on the prints is rather light; the degree of pressure will be quickly learned by experience, more pressure being required if the prints have been allowed to become dry before being polished. White castile soap will do very well as a lubricator for the prints before burnishing, and is applied in the same manner as the above.