THE PHOENICIANS AND THE HEBREWS.
The Phoenicians are noted in profane histo for their commerce, their extensive voyages, and their colonies, while the history of the Hebrews is derived from the Old Testament. Whether the Phoeni cians had that influence upon the Bronze Age of the North European nations which has been ascribed to them is very questionable. The im portant influence of the Hebrews on the spiritual culture of mankind falls wholly within the domain of religion, and can best be judged from that standpoint. Neither of these peoples has left such monumental testimony as would throw light on its exterior life, and we are therefore entirely dependent upon extant written evidences, which, regarding the last-named race, embrace a varied and voluminous literature, treating extensively of subjects both sacred and secular.
Cosiumc.—The Phoenicians, as well as the related inhabitants of Cyprus, are mentioned under the names of Pun and Krfiz on Egyptian monuments, which also acquaint us with their most ancient costume (p1. 18, _figs. 4, 5, S). A sculpture on the Assyrian palace of Kouyfinjik represents a conqueror receiving the submission of a Jewish family, and shows the Jewish apparel, consisting of a simple, gown-like garment (figs. 10-12), such as we have elsewhere noted (p. 143) as forming the principal detail of Western Asiatic dress.
The higher classes of the Hebrews, especially after David and Solomon had introduced luxury into the land, were disposed to imitate their pros perous neighbors, with whom they were often at war. They made the gown ("coat," Gen. xxxvii. 3; Exod. xxxix. 27; Cant. v. 3) the under garment, and added to it the Assyrian wrap and other articles, either adopting foreign styles or developing their native costume (Ars. 13-16). The priestly garb is to be placed in the same category, for the legally prescribed tassels and purple cords which were the chief marks of the Pharisees (ji. 16) are found on ancient sculptures.
From the neighboring Phoenicians, whose skill they utilized, as in the building of the temple, they learned to prize the purple, and from other nations they acquired a taste for golden ornaments. We even note in an
old Persian picture of a Jew (jig. 15) that the high cap of the Persians had been adopted. Ancient writers make occasional mention of the lux urious costume and mode of living of the Phoenicians; and the writings of the prophets show that notwithstanding incessant admonitions the Jews imitated other nations, and that the women particularly indulged immoderately in finery.
Isaiah writes: "Moreover, the Lord said, Because the daughters of Zion are haughty, and walk with stretched-forth necks and wanton eyes, walk 159 ing and mincing as they go, and making a tinkling with their feet• In that day the Lord will take away the bravery of their anklets, and the cauls, and the crescents; the pendants, and the bracelets, and the mufflers; the head-tires, and the ankle-chains, and the sashes, and the perfume boxes, and the amulets; the rings, and the nose-jewels; the festal robes, and the mantles, and the shawls, and the satchels; the hand-mirrors, and the fine linen, and the turbans, and the veils" (Isa. iii. 16, 18-24).
Both nations perished—the one in silence, the other in the midst of loud lamentations. There is nothing to prove that the products of their industry bore the stamp of a characteristic and continuous development.' We have minute written descriptions of the sacerdotal costumes, but no pictured representations are extant to illustrate them. These costumes developed gradually from a simple to a more elaborate form.
Garments of the Jewish priests and the high priest both wore "linen breeches" or drawers (Exod. xxviii. 42); these were of fine twined linen reaching from the loins to the middle of the thighs. Over this garment they wore a long gown ("broidered coat," Exod. xxviii. 4) of fine linen, which reached to the feet and fitted close to the body; it had sleeves, and was girded to the breast with a girdle made "of fine twined linen, and blue, and purple, and scarlet, of needlework" (Exod. xxxix. 29).