MOUNTAIN CLIMBING. The awakening of man's interest in mountains is chiefly due to Rousseau, though earlier writers, while approach ing them as scientists. were also susceptible to their charm. This two-fold interest led Saus sure to incite J. Balmat to find a way to the summit of Mont Blanc in 1786 and to accompany him thither in 1787. From that ascent alpinism is generally dated. In London in 1857 was formed the first Alpine Club to foster "the com munity of feeling amongst those who in the life of the High Alps have shared the same enjoy ments, the same labours, and the same dangers." This idea, in a modified form, was taken up throughout Continental Europe and advocated with such enthusiasm that more than 100,000 persons of both sexes are now enrolled in the various alpine societies. The largest of these are the German and Austrian (founded in 1862), about 55.000 members; Swiss (1863). 7000; Ital ian (1863), 54.000; and French (1874), 6000. In America three strong societies came into being: the Appalachian Mountain Club (q.v.) in Boston (1876). 1300 members; the Sierra Club (1892) in San Francisco. SOO; and the 'Mazamas' (1894) in Portland. Ore. In these derivative societies eligibility is based upon a love of nature and of the mountain in particular rather than on alpin ism proper. though most of them contain a con tingent of expert climbers. The American Alpine Club (1902), with its home in Philadelphia, aims to revert to the original type, but adds to its field polar exploration and the study of glaciers.
Thus cultivated, Alpine climbing has attained almost to a science. Its principles are set forth in extended manuals, such as Dent's Mountaineer ing, Badminton Library (London, 1892). It has called into existence the class of professional guides—Swiss, Tyrolese, and Italian—whose skill far exceeds that of the best amateurs. Their aid, always expedient in tours above snow line, is indispensable in attacks upon giant peaks in dis tant lands, such as have frequently been made within recent times.
The most dangerous accidents in mountain climbing, those which consist in falls from a great height, rarely occur when guides are taken and the party is properly roped together in a chain of mutual support. Occasionally some foothold seemingly secure gives way beneath the climber's weight; but more frequently the fall takes place because the climber is overtired, or has started too quickly, without the neces sary training and hardening, in consequence of which at a critical moment some muscle fails to answer. Overexertion of either body or mind is always to be avoided; for alertness of both is essential. The rope is the sheet anchor of mountaineering, whether it lie on the snow or on the equally dangerous grassy slopes. (In really difficult mountains no more than three persons should be on the same rope. With the rope
the iee-axe is used. and indeed is a very ni-ces sary adjunct to the climber. It eonsists of a steel axe with a cutting edge crosswise to the handle, like an adze and a pick. The handle is of such length that it. makes a convenient stall, mid is shod with a steel point. The cut ting edge of the axe is employed for making steps in an ice wall, the pick for holding and aiding the (limber in pulling himself up, while 11w axe when used as a staff or alpenstock enables the climber to hold securely, or it can be employed as a brake when descending. Acci dents which come from the fall of large masses of rock, siniw. or earth may lie largely obviated by a careful observation of the position of the sun with regard to snowtields below upon which the path is to be taken. If the snow begins to slide, carrying the climber with it. the utmost nimbleness of resource, wit, and strength applied to the alpenstock as a brake is the only remedy that can he formulated beforehand. In aseend ing an ordinary couloir Ill(' must lie con stantly used for cutting footholds step by step.
The list on the preceding page presents sonic of the principal first ascents since the earliest. authentic records.
Consult: J. Forbes, Trarel s Through the „I /ps ( Edinburgh, ; A. W. Moore, The .1 I ps 18G), from 515. copy (Edinburgh, 19021 J. Ball and E. S. Kennedy. Peaks, Passes, ,nut Glacier.% (London. 1559-62) : G. Studer, cher Pis u rut Schnee (Bern. 1869-711; J. Tyn dall. .1/ win tft inveriny in (London, 1862): id., 11 ours of Exercise in the ps (ib., 18711: L. Stephen, The Playgrou nel of Eu ropr 1871) ; Whytnper, Serambles .4 /Hoag t .] I psi (lb_ 15711: id.. Trore/s in the Oren .1 tales of the Equa or 1S92); C. 'f. Dent. .t burr flu Smar-line (lb_ 1885) ; Clarence King. tionnbrim rein!, in. he Sierra erode, I Roston, 18861; W. M. Conway, Climbing in thr K arahoram- imalayas ( London, 15941: id.. 77,e I ps f rum Ertel to Eml 1895) ; The Ho• liars (New York. 19011 : A. E. Mummery. Ify CI i nibs in the .1 lips and Caucasus (lb.. E. A. Fitzgerald. Climbs in t he Nem %colonel (n)., id., The 1/igheNt .1 odes (ib., 1809) : F. M. 11. Workman. In the his World of tht Himalaya (New- fork, 18951: C. E. 5lathew‘, The Inna Is of .11 ont Mane and the 11 a t erhorn (T. °titian. MS) ; F. 7'he .1 scent of Noun, saint Elias ( London. 100n1: D. Wil cox, Ca m pin g in the nmlian He:skies INew 1900) ; .1, N. Collie, Tun,biaq in I he II hag • la "las a nil Ili her l/crntiin.c I Edinburgh. 19021. For recent sNnherieo, 11101111f invering. consult pperlarhia, (11o.lon. 1876-1902), and .Si. rra flub Mille t in, vol.:. i.-iii. (San Francisco, 1593 1903),