WEAVES. While there are innumerable ar rangements, called iccares. for the interlacing of the warp and filling threads in weaving various textile fabrics, these arrangements are all based on three primary weaves, illustrated in Figs. 1, 2, and 3, technically called the plain, twill, and satin weaves, respectively. Practically all other arrangements are made by variations or combina tions of these three.
In Figs. 1, 2, and 3, the horizontal lines at A represent the loom-harness with the disposi tion of the warp threads On same; the treare is ,gown at II written out on squared design or cross-section paper, each representing the crossing of a warp and Tilling thread and the N marks showing that the warp is above the filling at' the point they appear: the blank sec tions show that the fill. imug is above the warp; the threads as inter laced are shown at C and a :wetion of the fabric cut through the warp is shown at D. The plain ircarc (Fig. 1 I is the simplest form of weaving, requiring but two different move ments of the warp threads. Four repeats of the weave in warp and filling are shown. From an examination of the several diagrams it will be seen that the movements of threads marked 1 are identical and of threads marked 2, while all alike, are exactly opposite to the movement of the former; this makes it pos sible to arrange the warp for the loom on the harness frames, as at A, and by raising No. 1 and depressing No. 2 the shed is formed while the first pick, or shot, of the filling is passed through, then harness No. 1 is depressed and No. 2 raised and the second filling thread is passed through the new• shed ; the third shed is like the first. the fourth like the second, and the weave repeated forms the fabric with the plain weave. Patterns in this weave can only be produced by the use of threads of different colors or material.
is not only the simplest but the firmest and strongest of weaves.
The twill ireare, as illustrated in Fig. 2 by one of the simplest forms, is a weave in \Odell the filling threads pass aver or under two of more adjacent warp threads at a time, at least once in a repeat, each of the picks being alike ex cept that each is stepped one thread to the right or the left of the one preceding it. The simplest
twills may be woven on three harness and are technically 'one up and two down,' 1,„ or `two up and one down,' twills, the former being a 'filling-face' and the latter a 'warp-face' weave as the warp or filling predominates on the face. The next twills are the four harness twills, which are warp face and filling face weaves respectively, and which is 'even-sided;' the twill used in the diagrams under Fig. 2 is a twill. The twill weave is distinguished by hav ing a distinct wale, or diagonal pattern. and by changing the number of threads taken up a great variety of twill weaves may be produced. Twill weaves are designated as right Drills and left twills, as the diagonal, when traced from the bot tom of a piece of cloth held lengthwise, leads to the right or left respectively. The twill shown in Fig. 2 is a right twill. By various arrange ments of the twill weaves, curved twills or weaves may be formed instead of plain diagonals. By drawing the warp threads in different ways on the loom harness fancy weave effects are produced, such as the 'herring bone,' where a sec tion of right twill and a section of left twill alternate.
The third of the primary weaves is the satin weare: this produces a smooth-faced fabric and is distinguished from the twill in that the warp inter laces with the filling at points distributed over the surface, dif fering from the step ping of the twill in which the stitching follows closely. The simplest satin weave is produced with five har ness and is used in Fig. 3 to illustrate this class of weaves. An examination of the diagram shows that the stitching of the warp-threads to the fill ing is so distributed that no two intersections are adjacent; and in order to make a smooth surface the warp-threads stitch down to but one filling thread in a repeat of the weave. The weave as shown produces a warp-faced fabric, while the warp, being thrown on the bad: by be ing raked above but one filling thread in a re peat, forms a tilling-faced fabric. Satin, sateens, and similar fabrics are produced with the satin weave.