Damask weaves are combinations usually of warp and filling-faced satin, the pattern effects being produced by using the warp-faced satin for the ground and the filling-faced satin for the ores.
One very important division of weaving is the production of fabrics of more than one system of warp and filling. In some instances the extra warp or filling is introduced to produce special figured or corded effects; in others to produce what. is called double cloth. True doulde cloth consists of two Sets of warp and filling interlac ing separately to form a face and a back cloth, but with occasionally interwoven threads to bind the two cloths into one fabric. There are also fabrics formed with two systems of warp and one filling interlacing with and thrown between them; and others both faces of filling interlacing with a single system of warp, which they cover. Fabrics for men's wear, pique's, guiltings, bed spreads, tapestries, so called, and other hangings are woven on the double-cloth principle.
The weaving of pile fabrics is usually accom plished by the use of two systems of warp and one of filling so arranged in the loom that small wires are inserted in the shed under the pile warp-threads to be raised, then those threads are lowered and interlaced with the other warp and filling, and the process repeated, the wires being withdrawn after a half dozen or so have been woven in, leaving the pile of loop-pile fabrics, such as Brussels carpet. Turkish or Terry towel ing, standing: for velvets, plushes, and cut-pile fabrics the rods are often supplied with a knife at one end, so that as they are withdrawn the loop is cut to form the pile, otherwise it is cut by hand.
Corduroy, selects, rcleetcens, and figured vel rets are woven on the filling-pile principle by having one system of warp and two of filling; the ground filling is interlaced closely with the warp, while the pile filling is allowed to float across several threads of warp at a time and the floats afterwards are cut to form the pile. The fig ured-pile effects are produced by cutting part of the pile and leaving the balance in loops or a different weave, the contrast between the cut and uncut-pile being marked.
Lappet wearing consists of the ornamentation of a fabric by the introduction of a special warp which is made to cross small sections of the regular warp and is manipulated by the lappet or needle attachment of the loom in such a man ner that it is stitched down first on one side then on the other of the figure it is to produce.
Swircl nearing is accomplished by a special attachment described in the article LOOM. The
introduces a special filling to form figures on the face of the fabric—usually at a distance one from another—aml while the result is simi lar to that secured by lappet weaving,much more elaborate effects can he produced, as the warp threads may he manipulated to bind the filling in a weave which, while causing it to predomi nate on the face of the fabric, does not make it float as in the lappet weave, where the figuring thread is bound down only at the right and left sides of the figure to he produced, with no inter mediate stitches. By the use of a tier of shuttles in the swivel attachment several colors may be introduced in the figure, as when weaving a fabric where the ground may he figured in an all-over pattern of leaves or vines produced by the regular warp and filling, and the flowers are scattered over the surface and blended of two or three different colored threads by the swivel attachment. The great advantage of producing figured effects by lappet or swivel weaving over the use of a regular warp or filling is that in the latter the warp or filling floats from figure to figure on the hack of the fabric, there being as many floating threads as there are threads in the figure, and these threads must. be trimmed off after weaving. causing a great waste of ma terial, while in the former mode of weaving the on 12 threads and could be woven on 12 harness, but the number of harness may be reduced to four by drawing all threads which have like movements on the same harness as designated at A. The same principle is applied to more elabo rate patterns where the weave may repeat on 100 or more warp threads and could be reduced, by the special drawing-in, to a number of harness which can be handled in the loom. In the har ness looms the movements of the various harness are governed either by earns or a pattern-chain which is so arranged that as it passes over a small intermittently revolving cylinder the liars of the chain, which are supplied with a roll, or small cam, for each harness that is to be raised, act on certain levers which control the harness and raise or lower them according to the arrangement of the harness-chain. Diagram C in Fig. 4 is the plan for the harness-chain to produce the weave B when the warp is drawn in the harness as at A.
For patterns where the warp threads inter lace with so many dif ferent movements that the weave may not be reduced as above, the patterns must he pro duced in a loom supplied with the Jacquard machine, which is a special head motion or har ness motion and is fully described in the article