MONASTIC COSTUME.
The principle of uniformity of dress to mark those who lived a common life was adopted even among the early monks of the Egyptian deserts. The character of the Eastern religious costumes was usually, as far as can be determined from the vague descriptions of early writers. such as to express a spirit of penitence and differentiate their wearers from the gaily dressed worldlings. The early Western founders, Saint Benedict and even Saint Francis. prescribed the general char acter hut not the exact shape and color of the garments to he worn by their followers. Custom gradually, in a community life. crystallized into rule. But since the thirteenth century the founders of orders have usually laid down the exact details of the habit to be worn, as a sort of regimental uniform. The notable exceptions are Saint Ignatius, Saint Philip Neri, and Saint Vincent de Paul. whose followers have never worn anything but the ordinary dress of secular priests. The wearing of the habit at all times is most strictly enjoined upon members of religious orders. except when it is sometimes dispensed with in non-Catholic conntries; the early Jesuits in China, in pursuance of their policy of adapting themselves to the customs of the country, wore the native co,tinne. illustration of Father
Adam Sella]] in the dress of a mandarin.) mally, however, the habit is always worn, taking the place for preaching (and in some places for administering the sacrament of penance) of the surplice and stole. For specific details of the costume of the various orders, see the articles under their titles.
BIBLIOGRAPHY. Rock, Ilierurgia. (London,Bibliography. Rock, Ilierurgia. (London, 1833) ; Pugin, Glossary of Ecclesiastical Orna ment and Costume (70 plates, London, 1844) ; Marriott, Vest iarium Ch-ristianu-m (London, 1868) : Bock, Geschiehte der liturgischen der des Jlittelalters (3 vols., Bonn, 1859-71) ; Alaskell, Mon umenta Ritualia Eceleskr Anglicame (London, 1846-47) ; Hefele, Beitrilye zur Kirehcngcsehielrte, Archaologie and Lit urgik (Tubingen, 1864-65) ; Macalister, Ecclesiastical Vestments. Their Development and History (Lon don, 1896) ; Baldesehi, Esposizione dells sacre ecremonic (Rome. 1S65) Scudamore, Notitia Eucharistic° (London, 1872) : Dolby, (`'lurch Vestments (London, 1868) ; P,ajewski, Eucholo qion der orthodor-katholischen Kirehe (Vienna, 1861 ).