LACE MANUFACTURE.] Chain-Wcaving.—We may apply this term to a mode of using threads in which a series of loops is formed by a continuous thread, each loop or link being so connected with others as to form a kind of chain ; and this chain-work may either be worked upon a ground woven at the loom, or may constitute the woven material itself. Sampler work, lace running, tambouring, pillow lace, rug work, Berlin work, tapestry,--all may be regarded as varieties of chain-work. The manufacture of stockings, whether by the humble process of knitting, or by the use of the stocking frame, is in strictness to be called chain. weaving; for the fabric itself is produced by a series of links or loops in a thread of worsted, cotton, or silk. In the process of knitting, still carried on to a small extent in secluded country districts, polished steel needles or wires are used to link threads together into a series of loops, closely resembling in their character the loops produced in tambouring.
But this method has been almost entirely superseded by the ingenious stacking-frame, Various kinds of chain-weaving are noticed under BERLIN WORE ; EMBROIDERY ; HOSIERY liANUFACTURE ; LACE MANUFACTURE ; TA PESTRY.
Pile-Weaving.—If we examine velvet, fustian, velveteen, moleskin, doeskin, or a Turkey or Wilton carpet, we shall find that in all of these fabrics the warp and weft threads are almost concealed by a kind of down, nap, or pile, which imparts a peculiarly soft and smooth texture to them. Fustians are in fact a kind of cotton velvet, as Turkey carpeting is a woollen velvet. A few details respecting this kind of weaving will be found under CARPET;