EXPLANATIONS.
The 2 glazes given are both transparent, that is to say, will show through any color, but to avoid being out it is best to add a little of each color to the glaze, when dipping colors, say ounce of color to every pint of glaze ; of course you will know that they must be kept separate and when putting them through the lauro everything must be perfectly clean and clear from any other color ; for everything in connection with glazed brick all must be kept strictly clean, and also clean cold water used. Where we say mix for use, we mean they must be put in either tubs or boxes water-tight, well mixed together, then put clean cold water with them, mix well up again, then run or put through the lauro as per dip No. t process, once through the 6o lauro and 3 times at least through the 8o lauro ; they are then ready for use. The buff body will be a far nicer buff if you will use a little of the orange stain, after it has been fired and ground ; say put i pound of color to every 15 pounds of the buff body, but it must be passed through the lauro after this stain has been put to it. By fire hard and grind, we mean weigh the mixings as given in each receipt; pass them all through a very fine sieve—we don't mean a lauro, but a sieve about 16 or 18 holes to the inch ; mix well up together; then put it all into a seggar or anything biscuit (we mean by biscuit anything that has not been glazed), but you should first put a coat of flint inside the seggar mixed with water; this will prevent the color or rather stain from sticking to the seggar, etc. Then put the seggar with the stain in the hottest place in your brick kiln and fire it ; when it is fired you will find the flint and perhaps the seggar stick to it ; it must all be chipped from the color ; it then requires grind ing; you should have a color pan for this purpose, but if you will send it to the potters they can grind it for you, as they must have color pans. If it is like cinders or clinkers when it comes out of the kiln, do not throw it away, for it is as it should be, but some of the colors will not go like this ; orange will not, no matter what heat you go to. After it is ground it wants drying in biscuit basins or anything that is biscuit, then run through a very fine sieve ; the finer the better, and it is then ready for use. You then take—for instance we say grass-green—you will take one ounce of grass-green stain to every ten ounces of white body No. 3, mix them well together, put some clean cold water with them, pass them through a sixty lauro once and through an eighty lauro three times, make it to weigh 283% ounces to a pint, and it is then ready to be used as Dip No. 2. You treat
all the colors in this way. For turquoise, sage-green, deep blue, royal-blue, brown and grass-green, use one ounce of stain to every ten ounces of white body No. 3. For Van dyke brown, red-brown, orange, blue-green, celadon, yellow green and olive-green, use one ounce or one pound of stain to every 12 ounces or 12 pounds of white body No. 3. For ma hogany brown use i ounce or i pound of stain to every J4 ounces or 14 pounds of white body No. 3. For drab use I ounce or i pound of stain to every 22 ounces or 22 pounds of white body No. 3. For light blue use i ounce or i pound of stain to every 8o ounces or 8o pounds of white body No. 3. You must also stain the different glazes as we have before men tioned, viz. 7 ounce of stain to every pint of glaze, but light blue is excepted ; you must use i ounce of light blue stain to every X gallon of glaze, or it will be too deep a color. You will see we mentioned calcined oxide of nickel in the sage green receipt. We mean by calcined that it must be fired. You will get it ready calcined and ground from any whole sale druggist. The turquoise stain and the oxide of nickel must both be calcined and ground before they are mixed to gether for sage-green stain ; after they are thus mixed you must treat them just as the other colors, viz. : 1 ounce or 1 pound of this stain to every 10 ounces or 1 o pounds of white body No. 3. Be very careful when weighing out the quantities that you obtain the correct weights, as in some cases X an ounce will throw you wrong either way. You cannot be too careful in weighing them out. You must in all cases put dip No. i on the brick first (see instructions) ; this is the slip made of your own clay and white body ; then the white body is called Dip No. 2, that is to say if you want to make a white brick. For the second dip, dip it into the white body, but it you want to make any of the colors (mazarine blue excepted) you must put the colored body on instead of the white, and call that Dip No. 2. All materials used to make the stains you can obtain from any wholesale druggist ; but the others, such as flint, feldspar, Cornwall stone, whiting, plaster, ball and china clays, you can obtain from the potters or from flint mills, or wholesale druggists should keep them; the potters should keep them, as they are obliged to use all the materials which we have mentioned in their own manufacture of pots, etc.