Cotton Manufacture

yarns, yarn, trade, cent, threads, yds, lb and warp

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The cop yarn trade is confined to this country, and near districts on the Continent, such as France, Belgium, Holland, and Germany. For the home trade, yarn is packed in large wicker baskets, called "skips," which, when emptied, are returned to the spinner. When sent abroad, it is packed in large barrels or casks. The Nos. of yarn exported are chiefly the above-mentioned series ; and, in addition, a less quantity of 40's, 50's, and 60's to India.

Home trade Nos. include all counts from about 12's to 250's. From 12's to 24's warp yarns, and from 16's to 40's weft yarns are consumed in the manufacture of domestics, T. cloths, and similar goods ; 28's to 32's or 36's, with wefts from 30's to 54's are used in making shirtings for India and China, and for printing cloths ; 40's warp yarn forms the base of what is known as the Jaconet range of goods, with wefts from 50's to 70's ; 60's yarn along with 60's to 90's weft, enters into the composition of Mulls. These represent leading staples in yarns ; intermediate in one form or another, there are a great variety besides, which compose special makes of cloth. Yarns known as medium fine Nos. are used in the manufacture of fine jaconets and muslins, made in Glasgow, and in Tarare (France), to which places Bolton yarns are largely sent, whilst the finest Nos. from 100's to 800's are consumed in the manufacture of lace at Nottingham, and in various Continental centres of the same industry.

Yarns are spun with different amounts of twist in them, and are known as hard-, medium-, and soft-twist. The first are chiefly exported to the Levant, the second constitute the bulk of all, whilst the last are designed principally for hosiery purposes.

In addition, there are printed, dyed, and bleached yarns, mainly used in the coloured-goods trade, and exported for use in the same section in foreign countries.

Twofold yarns in nearly all Nos., qualities, and conditions, are also obtainable, doubled by the wet and dry processes, Based, and polished.

Yarns aro chiefly sold on the Manchester Exchange, where spinners and manufacturers meet daily, though the principal assemblies take place on Tuesdays and Fridays. Quotations are a] ways on the basis of 1 lb. weight, and contracts ore made for 5000-200,000 lb. at a time. Private spinners mostly employ agents to sell their productions. Some confine it to one; others will accept the services of all comers who can bring them orders. The great joint-stock spinning companies employ sharp young men as salesmen, who endeavour, though not always successfully, to sell their production themselves. The yarn agent is in many cases the spinner's banker, making prompt payment against the deliveries of yarn, and occasionally allowing draughts in advance to those in needy circumstances. Successful agents have a largo turnover, and sometimes make great

fortunes, though in times of depression, and bad trade, risks are enormous, and losses heavy.

The commission allowed for this service is a matter of arrangement, and is generally 1 per cent. for the service, and 1 per cent. for guaranteeing payment of the account. Sometimes the spinner accepts the risk himself, when he only pays the first-mentioned amount. The buyer who buys his yarn on short credit—that is for the account to be due 14 days after date of invoice—obtains 2i per cent. discount. Long terms, for which 1/ per cent. discount is given, consist in deliveries made one month being paid for at the expiration of the month fnllowing. Shipping terms differ from both of these, being an allowance of 3 months' credit net, or, for cash, a deduction of interest on the amount of invoice at 5 per cent. for 95 days, payment in 14 days.

The conduct of a spinning business is comparatively simple, when contrasted with manufac turing. Tho manufacturer, unless he is engaged in producing a staple olass of goods, before he can accept an order with safety, must make an elaborate calculation of the cost of producing the article, which, if the price offered will not cover, and allow a sufficient margin for contingencies and profit, is generally declined. Frequently a considerable portion of a market day is spent in making these examinations, notably by makers of specialities.

The following are the chief staple gnods in the trade and the particulars of manufacture as generally produced : Domestics : stout cloths for the home and Continental trade, made in threo widths, 28 in., 32 in., and 35 in., with 12-16 warp threads, and about the same number of weft threads, in the / in. of cloth; the length is usually 75-100 yds. a piece. The counts of yarn aro generally—for the warp, from 16's to 24's, with wefts from 20's to 36's. One of these cloths would be technically described as follows :-32 in./100 yds., 16 x 16 threads, 20 lb. T. oloths are identical textures made in 24 yds. lengths for export. Mexicans are a better quality of the above, and made in both lengths. Shirtings for India and China are usually 39 in., 45 in., and sometimes 54 in. wide. They were formerly made with 32's and 36's yarns, 16 x 15 threads, and 37/ yds. long ; but legislation affecting the Indian tariff, with severe competition, has considerably modified these particulars. Great quantities of the 39 in. width are made ; the weight is usually 81 lb.

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