Printing cloths are woven in long lengths, usually 116-120 yds., 32 in. wide, and 32's by 40's, 50's, or 54's weft, according to stipulation. It is not often that the weight of these goods is regarded, the counts of the yarn being stipulated for and guaranteed. Having to undergo treatment subse quent to manufaoturing, there is no inducement to adulterate them by means of size. Jaeonets form another series of goods manufactured for Eastern countries ; they are made from 40's warp, and 50's-60's wefts, in various widths, reed, and pick, as the warp and weft are technically called.
Mulls are a finer series, in all respects like the above, with the exception of yarns, which are usually 20 hanks finer in both threads.
Dhooties are either of shirting, jaconet, or mull texture, in the body of the cloth, but having tape, coloured, or coloured and figured borders. These are also for India, the figured work being produced by the aid of the " dobby" attachment to the loom.
Home trade domestics, mediums, and longcloths are similar in nearly all respects to those described above, but are usually made from much better material, and have more care bestowed upon them in the manufacture, They are well represented by the series produced by several of the leading firms, whose trade marks are well known in all drapers' shops.
In ooloured goods, there is an immense variety, to enumerate which would be tedious to the reader. Their general divisions must therefore suffice. These are regattas, checks, ginghams, nankeens, denims, grandrills, jeans, mottles, ticks, &c., &e.
3 e The great series of fancy goods include quiltings and check, figured, and lace muslins, satteens, royal ribs, piqu6s, fancy drills, and numerous other examples of a kindred nature.
Moleskins, cords, velvets, and velveteens constitute a large and important division by themselves, called "pile-cloths." In the latter class, textures of great beauty, scarcely distinguishable from silk, are produced at remarkably low prices.
The manufacturing districts of Lancashire, in which all the above goods are made, form an irregular triangle of about thirty miles on each side, composed of the eastern and south-eastern portions of the county. In this district, are situated the numerous centres of industry engaged in the manufacture of cotton into its multitudinous products. A line drawn from Preston in the north west to Colne on the eastern border of the county, would leave Blackburn, Burnley, and Accrington a little to the south, and would extend about twenty-five miles ; thence southward by Todmorden, Rochdale, Oldham, and Staley Bridge to Stockport would form another line about thirty miles in length ; and a third, from Stockport via Manchester, Bolton, Wigan, and Preston, would complete the description. The cotton industry to a limited extent exists beyond these lines, but has no feature that needs remark. Almost each centre possesses special characteristics, and a description
of these will include all beyond the boundary lines. Preston is chiefly distinguished for its pro duction of mediums, longcloths, and muslins, mostly for the home trade. It also spins most of the yarns required for their manufacture. Blackburn, about nine miles distant therefrom, is a great weaving centre, possessing about 60,000 looms in the town ; whilst in the adjacent towns and villages, mostly within a compass of five miles, this large number is more than doubled. The looms of Blackburn, Darwen, Oswaldtwistle, and Church, are usually engaged upon the production of goods for Eastern markets, such as shirtings, jaconets, mulls, and dhooties. Accrington, five miles to the east of Blackburn, from the earliest days of the cotton trade has been a considerable centre of calico-printing and dyeing, and this fact has influenced the character of its textile productions. Cloths suitable for dyeing and printing are its chief make, to which about 12,000 looms are devoted, Itishton, Harwood, and Openshaw supplement these with about 8000 looms, engaged on the same goods. Burnley has achieved a reputation for the manufacture of printing cloths of the lighter character, suitable for export prints. Of these it makes large quantities, possessing about 30,000 looms, chiefly engaged upon them, to which Padiham and Colne, in the neighbourhood, add a con siderable number. Todmorden produces mainly T. cloths and China drills. Rochdale makes a similar class of cotton goods, though perhaps rather better in quality, along with a small quantity of coloured goods and velvets. Oldham, besides being the chief spinning centre of the world, having millions of spindles, has a considerable manufacture of special fabrics, such as velvets, cords, and many fancy fabrics used for costumes. Ashton, Staley Bridge, and Stockport, the two former, like Oldham, besides being engaged in spinning the same class of yarns, have a great weaving industry, making principally home trade shirtings and the best class of printing cloths. There is now comparatively little manufacturing in Manchester, the little there is being mostly located in Pendleton on the north-western side of the city. The fabrics in vogue in this district and neigh bourhood are coloured goods of all descriptions, as also at Radcliffe, a small town about five miles from the city. Bolton is chiefly distinguished for its production of medium fine yarns, and after these, quiltings, figured counterpanes, and fancy muslins. The various towns in the Rossendale valley have a divided industry, the cotton section, which is the largest, being representative of most of the others described, though domestics and T. cloths are the principal. The aggregate of looms in this district will probably be 40,000.