LINEN MANUFACTURES (Fa., Industrie &We•e, liniere ; GER., Leinenmanufactur).
The spinning and weaving of flax is undoubtedly the second, if not the oldest, of the textile arts.' Evidence of the truth of this statement abounds on every hand. The phintings in the tombs of Upper Egypt, in which the processes of manufacture, from the pulling of the flax to the weaving and finishing of the cloth, are vividly represented, taken in conjunction with the remarkable pre servation of the cloths in which the ancient Egyptians enshrouded their embalmed dead, render its certainty beyond dispute. Every fact in connection with this subject, which has been brought to light, tends to show the very high degree of perfection to which these people had carried the industry. Whether they invented the art of weaving, or received it from a people older than them selves, it is useless now to inquire. Certain it is that, after Egypt had long been the emporium of manufactures and commerce, the art under notice gradually spread beyond its boundaries into neighbouring lands. The Israelites, on their departure from captivity, carried with them a know ledge of the industry which they had acquired during their sojourn by the Nile. Phoenicia possessed the art at a very early period, and Sidon, Tyre, and Carthage were successively great centres of commerce in "purple and flue linen." The cultivation and manufacture of flax became a considerable industry in ancient Greece and Rome. In these states, it first appears to have attained such dimensions as to become a separate handicraft or trade, though far from having become extinct as domestic institution. In the former country, so high a degree of excellence was attained, that when the simplicity of the means the artisans possessed is borne in mind, the results achieved command the adthiration of experts of the present day ; and Spain, Gaul, and Germany doubtless received the art from these sources. During the period following the fall of Rome, the linen manufacture, along with other arts and industries, was nearly destroyed. The maritime and free cities of Italy were the first to accord renewed encouragement to the flax industry, and Bruges, Hamburg, and other towns became eminent centres. The Flemings at a very early period became flax manufac turers, and great numbers earned their subsistence by weaving, and disposing of their productions in France; under Baldwin III., and several subsequent rulers, the woollen and linen manufacturers of Flanders rose to great importance, and maintained their high rank until intestine quarrels and religious persecutions drove the craftsmen to foreign lands. From the 6th century down to the
present day, Germany has possessed a manufacture and trade in linen goods of considerable extent and importance, while the raw material has been largely cultivated in its alluvial districts. The Netherlands for a long time manufactured, and otherwise traded with great benefit, in linen fabrics. Since its separation, Belgium has devoted great attention to the cultivation and manufacture of flax, and as regards the production of the raw material, now stands at the head of the industry. France for more than 1000 years has grown and manufactured flax, the fibre raised by the farmers being dressed, spun, and woven for domestic use long before the modern system of manufacture was originated; during the current century, the industry has made considerable progress, and though formerly spread over a large area of country, it is now mainly concentrated in particular localities, situated in the northern and western provinces : Flanders (French), Picardy, Isle of France, Normandy, Maine, and Brittany. Russia raises large quantities of flax, which is exported in the unmanufactured state ; for centuries past, it has possessed a domestic manufacture, spread over its extensive dominions, and since machinery has been applied to it, the country has made fair though not great progress in adapting itself to the changed oircumstances; formerly its linen manu factures, being composed of the better qualities of flax, stood high in various markets, but they have been supplanted to a great extent by the cheaper fabrics produced from jute and jute mixtures in Dundee. The states of N.-W. Europe—Denmark, Norway, and Sweden—possessed an industry in this article of ancient origin, but of only the smallest importanoe. Switzerland is prevented by geo graphical location, and unsuitable soil, from excelling in the production or manufacture of flax; but notwithstanding these disadvantages, it has succeeded in founding a considerable industry, the raw materials being imported from the surrounding countries, and the manufactured fabrics supplying the home market, and finding their way into Italy, Austria, and the Danubian States. The linen manufactures of other foreign countries are of the most insignificant character.