Windows in Frame Walls

The advantage of having mosquito screen and blinds outside of sashes is secured in this case by using four by five-inch studs. The construction is known as a "box frame," the back casing "A" forming the box and insuring a rigid pulley style and consequently accurately fitting sashes. The window sill forms the bottom of the weight box, and is grooved out three-eighths of an inch for the pulley stile.

Fig. 91 is a section through the head of the window.

Fig. 92 is a section through the jamb of the window. The use of the strip of wood "B," dividing the weight box, is an improvement used only in the best grade work.

Fig. 93 is a section through the sill of the win dow, and shows the use of the moulded panel back under the window in place of the stool and apron finish.

Fig. 94 is an interior elevation of the window.

Plate XIX takes up the construction of a double=hung sash frame in a double-plastered wall, with mosquito screen and blinds outside of the sashes and ample space for window shades on the inside stop head. Also, the inside finish is of a somewhat better character than in preceding examples.

In locations exposed to severe cold weather and penetrating winds the double-plastered wall is particularly desirable. The walls are constructed of the usual two by four-inch studs, with one four by four-inch or two two by four-inch studs at all open ings. The outside of the wall is sheathed with matched boards, laid horizontally or diagonally, preferably the latter way, and the sheathing paper is then put on; being well lapped at all corners and around all openings. On top of this the shingles, clapboards or other covering material is placed.

The inside of the wall is lathed and plastered two coats—scratch coat and brown coat. One inch by two-inch grounds are nailed to studs as indicated at "G." A one-inch air space is then formed by means of one-inch by two-inch furring strips, marked "F, " and the wall is again lathed and plastered, this time with three coats of plaster. All spaces around head, sill and jambs of window frame should be well filled up with scratch mortar, so as to be absolutely wind-proof.

In Fig. 96, where marked "P, " two pockets are formed in the lower part of the pulley stile, for access to the sash weights. When the strip of wood dividing weight box is omitted, one pocket, usually on the inner half of the pulley stile, is sufficient. The flashing shown at the outside

architrave is used only in the best grade of work.

The interior finish consists of a pedestal base or wainscoting, the top member of which forms the window stool ; pilaster jambs and an entablature head. With a finish of this kind the stop bead, marked "S, " should always be made thick enough to take up the projecting mouldings of the cap and base, which butt against it. The panel under the window should be constructed so that it can be readily removed in case it cracks or is damaged, by taking off the panel moulding. The frieze of the entablature should be on a line with the face of the pilaster, and the face of the wainscoting should be kept on a line with the plinth of the pil aster base. Cap and base are shown in Fig. 101 and 102.

Fig. 99 is an exterior elevation and Fig. 100 an interior elevation of the window.

Another method of constructing double-plas tered walls and a window frame for same is shown in Fig. 98. In this case one-inch by two-inch furring strips, marked "A," are nailed to the studs as a bearing for the lath and are plaecd so as to allow a one-inch air space between the inside plas tering and the back plastering. The frame could be improved by placing the outside casing outside of the sheathing boards, thereby giving enough width to the pulley stile to permit of both screen and blinds outside of sashes.

In Plate XX we illustrate a storm=resisting window, with a double set of sashes, in a double plastered wall, for use in a location exposed to very severe weather throughout the entire or greater part of the year.

Three by six-inch studs are used for the outside walls and the window has a box frame with a sepa rate weight box for each set of sashes. The sill should be gotten out of two-and-one-half inch stuff.

Fig. 106 shows how storm sash may be substi tuted for blinds when cold weather sets in. The thickness of storm sash and outside architrave should be at least one and one-half inches, or better, one and three-quarter inches. The joint at the meeting stiles of storm sash is shown in Fig. 107. Sash are usually rebated one-half inch.