DOOR FRAMING Setting Door Jambs. In building construc tion, one thing that deserves more attention than it usually gets is setting door jambs, and the fitting and hanging of doors. You have often noticed that doors do not shut securely as they should; that is, they stand in or out at the top or bottom of the door frame, as if the door was in a wind, or in a twist. Of course, carpenters have a handy way of getting out of this trouble by saying the door is in a twist, and that they cannot help it. Sometimes this may be the case; but more often the trouble is in setting the door jambs.
To begin with, good, straight studding should be selected to set next to the door jambs; but how often we find that the poorest studding brought to the job is used in the partitions next to the door. This is owing to the fact that the partitions are the last place where studding is used; and by the time the partitions in the house are to be set, all the good studding has been picked out and used, and nothing is left but the crooked studs.
Scarcely anyone cares to use crooked stud ing; so he always picks out the straight studs, until at last nothing but the crooked ones remain. This may be used without harm in many places about the building—for example, for short rafters, headers, over and under win dows, and for lookouts in the cornice. The con tractor should see that they are used in these places, and enough good, straight studding reserved to use around the door openings next to the door jambs.
The trouble with doors being in a twist more often comes from the door jambs being set out of plumb. If crooked studs are used, it is diffi cult to plumb them up securely, and two-thirds of the carpenters will get the studding more or less in a twist, or, as it is commonly called, in a wind. When the man who sets the jambs comes along, he will nearly always set his jambs to conform to the plastering; otherwise the jamb would stick out too far on one side of the door, and not far enough on the other. It is the edge of the jamb that is mostly neglected and gives the most trouble. Many workmen set the jambs with the wall, regardless of whether they are plumb or not.
In Fig. 36, at E, is shown a jamb set with the edge of one jamb out of plumb. Now, this
is just what is done about six times out of seven, where the doors seem to be in wind. If the jambs were set as shown in the sketch, the door would not close well at the top, but would stand as shown at T. The dotted line shows how much this line is out of plumb. In case it is found impossible to get the jambs exactly plumb, do not set the jamb plumb on one side of the door, and the other side out of plumb, as shown in the sketch. Be sure that you have both jambs alike. If one is out of plumb a trifle, be sure the other one is out the s am e amount and in the same direction. Then your door will not come in wind, and if the amount is small no one will ever notice it.
Door jambs properly set facilitate hanging doors, and a man can fit and hang more doors in a day to jambs that are set right. Most doors run one-eighth of an inch wider than the listed size; thus a door listed 2 feet 6 inches wide will in most instances measure 2 feet inches; and it is safe, therefore, to make the jambs one eighth of an inch wider than the width of the door. It makes a difference in the time of fitting the door when there is considerable to plane off, or if the door is so much wider that it has to be ripped.
Framing for Exterior Door. Fig. 37 shows the construction of an exterior door and frame in a frame house. The studs are doubled about the opening; and grounds (G) are set on same for the trim and the door jamb and head. The jamb is of seven-eighths-inch stuff with a moulded stop planted on. Another way of con structing the jamb is to get it out of one-and one-eighth-inch stuff and rebate it for the door, thus doing away with the applied stop.
The door is veneered on both sides one eighth inch thick, and on edges five-eighths inch thick, on a core of white pine strips glued together with the grains reversed. The core is frequently tongued and grooved together. Thicker edge veneer is required so as to permit of planing down the edges without exposing the core. In the better class of work, the face and edge veneers are mitered at the angles so as to conceal the end grain of the face veneer.