HOUSE FRAMING After this preliminary work has been done and the foundation walls erected, the real work of framing for the carpenter begins. There are in general use at the present time two dis tinct types of framing, known respectively as braced framing and balloon framing. The first is the older and stronger method, and is favored. especially in the Eastern States, for the more expensive houses. The latter has come into much favor during the past fifty years, is decidedly cheaper than the other, and is entirely satisfactory for most residence work.

Balloon Framing. Since the "balloon" sys tem of framing is now most in use, it will be chiefly considered here, with some references to and comparisons with braced framing, as opportunity offers. It may be said in passing, however, that in a full braced frame all the pieces are fastened together with mortise-and tenon joints; but this is modified in actual prac tice, spiked joints and corner braces being used.
Sill Construction. The sill is that part of the side walls of a house that rests horizontally immediately upon the foundation or under pinning, to which it should be securely, fastened.
In former times it was required that sills should be of squared, solid timbers of good size, 6 by 8 or at the least 6 by 6 inches. In connec tion with the other economies introduced with balloon framing, however, several types of box sills have come into use, and are thoroughly satisfactory if laid on a good wall foundation. They will not do on posts or piling.
Box Sills. As is always the case where rules governing construction and design are yet in a changing and unsettled state, so-called box sills of various kinds have been used under houses— not altogether satisfactorily. In some cases the studs are set on top of sill or wall-plate, and the floor-joist spiked to the studs, so that when floor is laid out to studs it leaves an opening the height of joist and width of studding from underneath the building up between siding or sheathing and plaster, thereby allowing rats, mice, and cold air free access.
Some carpenters try to remedy this by block ing in between the studs, which, if well done, will answer the purpose of closing the opening; but another objection still remains.
The sills, joists, studs, and other rough lum ber, are generally right from the saw, and, upon seasoning, will shrink from 3/4 to 1 inch to the foot in width, while the shrinkage in length is scarcely perceptible. So the joists are on top of sill and nailed to studs, and floor laid out to studs, and base fitted close to the floor and nailed to the studs. This looks all right, and would be if it stayed so; but in a few months the joist will shrink and take the floor down with it, leaving the base nailed to the studs, and a crack from 1/2 to 3/4 inch under the base.
A much better plan is shown in Fig. 7. Lay a 2 by 8 on foundation wall flatwise, and size the ends of floor-joist on top to receive a 2 by 6 around the entire building, and set studs on this directly over joist. Then, when floor is laid, it will lap 2 inches on the 2 by 6 if 2 by 4 stud is used, or 1 inch if 2 by 5 stud is used, thereby ef fectively stopping all openings for draughts of vermin. But this is not all; when the floor-joists shrink, the studs go down with them, thus keeping base, floors, doors, etc., in their original position relative to one another.
In case posts are used instead of solid wall, it is then necessary to use a sill instead of wall plate, and joist should be gained down level with top of sill. With a box sill or built-up sill of any kind for a post foundation, too much dependence is placed on the nails; and in a climate like ours, and especially in oak tim ber, the nails, in the course of a few years, become very weak and brittle from rust. Another box sill that is claimed to be strong, warm, and "rat-proof" is shown in Fig. 8.
First there is a wall-plate or bed-plate, say of 2 by 8 inches, and an upright the same width as joist, thus allowing the studding to rest on the bed-plate and be spiked to the upright.