FASHION, or, as the French term it, la mode, admits as little of exact definition as of being referred to any intelligible principle. In every age and country, there has been a recognizable costume or general style of male and female attire, along with cer tain niceties in the shape, color, and texture of dress, which, according to taste or whim, are known as the F.—a word which etymologically signifies making in a particular form. The terms F. and fashionable are, however, so comprehensive as to include much beyond the sphere of the toilet; as, for example, a style of speaking, living, and forming opinions; there being, to use a common phrase, " a fashion in every thing." It is only in China and some other eastern countries that, in consequence of dress being regulated by sumptuary laws or some equally strict traditions, the fashions of attire remain from generation to generation with little or no change.
The nature of clothing, and the necessity for its use, being treated in the articles WEAVING and SAtirrAttv SCIENCE, what seems desirable here is to glance at the leading forms of dress and more conspicuous fashions that have prevailed in western Europe, and more particularly in England, since the dawn of civilization. Our modern costume has seemingly had a double origin—that of the Romans and of the Teutonic people, who in different branches invaded France and Britain. The usual Roman dress, in the latter period of the empire, consisted of a tunic, or loose upper garment, with a dress for the lower limbs, called bracers; hence the modern term breeches. Over all was occa sionally worn by the higher classes the toga, or mantle. It is believed that these Roman costumes were generally copied by the greater number of British, at least among the more opulent classes. In the dress of the women, however, there was but little change. They appear in two tunics, the one reaching to the ankles, the other having short sleeves, and reaching about half-way down the thigh: in other words, they resemble a round gown, or bedgown and petticoat, though the latter, distinct from a body and sleeves, is not considered to be ancient. This tunic was called in British gwn; hence our word gown, of which we still see specimens of short dimensions worn by women of the bum bler classes in England, Scotland, and Wales.
The Anglo-Saxon and Danish periods of English history are marked by new pecu liarities in costume. Soon after the departure of the Romans, and the arrival of the
Saxons in the 5th c., fashions of apparel were introduced from northern Germany,which continued with no material change for several centuries. The most important improve ment in the ordinary dress of the people was the introduction of the skirt, a linen gar ment worn next the skin, for which we are indebted to the Saxon invaders. The common dress of the 8th c. consisted, as we find, of linen shirts; tunics, or a kind of surcoat; cloaks fastened on the breast or shoulders with brooches; short drawers met by hose, over which were worn bands of cloth, linen, or leather, in diagonal crossings. Leathern sandals were worn by the early Anglo-Saxons; but afterwards the shoe became common: it was very simple, and well contrived for comfort, being opened down the instep. and there, by a thong passed through holes on each side of the slit, drawn tight round the feet like a purse. A felt or woolen cap, called hat (hence our modern word hat), was worn by the higher class of Anglo-Saxons; but it is generally believed that the serfs or lower orders were without any other covering for the head than what nature had given them. The Anglo-Saxon tunic still exists in the smock frock, a species of overall gener ally worn by the peasantry and some farmers in England. The blouse, worn by workmen in France and Switzerland, has an equally early origin.
The Norman conquest introduced greater taste and splendor into British costume. Now, were introduced gloves (q.v.), along with the fashions of chivalry. A gentleman of the reign of Henry V. was dressed in a short tunic, buttoned in front, with girdle, large loose sleeves, tight hose forming pantaloons and stockings in a single piece, peaked shoes, and head-cloth or cap. About this period, silks and velvets of divers colors came into use among the higher classes, by whom gold chains were generally worn. The dress of ladies was of the richest kind. Gowns were embroidered and bordered with furs or velvet; and the bodice, laced in front over a stomacher, now first appeared. But the greatest eccentricity Was the lofty steeple head-dress; this consisted of a roll of linen, covered with fine lawn, which hung to the ground, or was mostly tucked under the arm.