The female costume of this period was rather elegant than splendid. Gowns with close bodies and tight sleeves were worn, though the farthingale was retained, with a gorget ruff standing up about the neck like a fan. French hoods were still worn, though with little distinction as to rank. The hair was worn in small curls, and the hoods, of all colors, fastened under the chin with curious effect. Ear-rings, necklaces, and bracelets were much worn; but the Puritans forbade the females to wear lace, jewels, or even braided hair; and they retained the close hood and high-crowned hat.
Towards the close of the reign of Charles I., the cumbrous farthingale disappeared, with the yellow starched ruff and band. These tasteless fashions being dismissed, the female dress became very elegant, with its rich full skirt and sleeves, and falling collar edged with rich lace, and the hair worn in graceful ringlets; but these vanities were condemned by the Puritan party.
With the restoration of Charles II. came certain tasteless innovations upon the elegant Vandyke costume of the time of Charles I., which were the first resemblance to the coats and waistcoats of the present day. Thus our most picturesque attire lasted little more than a quarter of a century. Its decline was gradual; its chivalric character soon degenerated into grotesqueness, which in its turn changed to stark meanness. Early in the reign of Charless II., the doublet was much shortened, and worn open in front, where, and at the waistband, the rich shirt was shown; and the loose sleeves and breeches were decked with ribbons and points, and from the knee-bands hung long lace ruffles. At the wrists, too, ruffles were worn; but the lace-collar was shorn of its points. The cloak was retained upon the left shoulder, and the high-crowned and plumed hat remained for a short time; but the crown of the hat was soon lowered.
The petticoat breeches were another absurdity; although ornamented with ribbons at the sides, the lining strangely appeared below the breeches, and was tied at the knees; to match which, the sleeves of the doublet only reached to the elbows, and from under them bulged the ruffled sleeves of the shirt, both being ornamented with ribbons. Meanwhile the skirt of the doublet had been lengthened from above the waist nearly to the knees, and had buttons and button-holes in its entire length, thus becoming a coat, and so named in an inventory of 1679; wherein also are the items of waistcoat, breeches, pantaloons, drawers, and trousers, being the earliest mention of these articles. Stockings of various kinds were common ; and " the lower ends of stockings" are understood as socks. Instead of the lace-collar was worn the long square-ended cravat, of the same
material, from Brussels and Flanders.
Passing to the reigns of James II. and William III., we find the male attire gradually fashioned according to the artificial costume of the court of Louis XI V. Every article of dress was now more prim and exact. The petticoat breeches were exchanged for the close fitting garments tied below the knee, and therefore called knee-breeches; the broad-rimmed hats were turned up on two sides and edged with feathers or ribbons; we began to see the rich long lace cravat and embroidered waistcoat; and the band was now narrowed, so as to resemble that worn at the present time by clergymen. Wigs, which had been some time in use, were worn still longer than hitherto, hanging down in front, or flowing upon the shoulders, though the color was altered from black to suit the com plexion. From the 17th to the end of the 18th c., was the era of hair-powder (q.v.), wigs (q.v.), and cocked-hats; in these as in other matters there being an excessive arti ficiality in the tastes of the higher classes. A gentlemen of 1750 might have been seen with his flowing coat and ample cuffs, frills at the wrist, deep waistcoat hanging over the legs, long white hose drawn over the knees, his cocked-hat folded under his arm, and in his hand an open snuff-box (q.v.). Such was the appearance of what is tradi tionally known as the " old English gentlemen." The coats of the 18th c. were of velvet, silk, or satin, as well as broadcloth, and their colors very fanciful. Ilogarth's favorite color was sky-blue; Reynolds's deep crimson and violet; and Goldsmith rejoiced in plum-color. About 1790, cloth became the general wear; the waistcoat being of the costlier materials, and embroidered, and sometimes the breeches. Buckles were worn at the knees and in the shoes till the close of the century; and the large square plated buckle was the ton until 1791, when shoe-strings became general. Among the artificialities of dress during the greater part of the 18th c., none was more odious than that of hoops (q.v.), worn by ladies, who, by these means of expansion, were made to appear as if stand ing in an inverted tub. In the reigns of George I. and II., a lose kind of drapery at the back of the dress, called a sacgue, and hooded silk-cloaks, were worn, also a very small. muff, such as have been lately revived. In the 18th c., after the disuse of tower ing head-dresses, veils (q.v.) of an elegant fabric were introduced, and the fan (q.v.) was an important article for ornament and flirtation.