In the 16th c., the upper part of the long hose or nether garments began to be worn loose, or slashed with pieces of different colors let in, and the arms and shoulders of the doublet or jacket were fashioned in a similar style. Boots were also worn loose on the leg, with the upper part falling down; hence the origin of the buskin. Ruffs or ruffles, collars, and velvet bonnets with feathers, came likewise into use, as may be seen from the paintings of Henry VIII. Hall, the chronicler, describes several of Henry's superb dresses, and among them a frock,e, or coat of velvet, embroidered all over with gold of damask, the sleeves and breast cut and lined with cloth of gold, and tied together " with great buttons of diamonds, rubies, and orient pearls." The cloaks and mantles were of corresponding magnificence. The shirts were pinched or plaited, and embroid ered with gold, silver, or silk. The term hose continued to be applied to the entire vestment, from the waist to the feet, throughout this century; the material is more dis tinctly stated, for Henry wore knit silk as well as cloth hose: the precise period of the separation of the hose into breeches and stockings, is not so clear as the derivation of the latter term from the "stoekying of hose;" " that is, adding the lower part that covered the legs and feet to that which was fastened by points to the doublet," and was called the stocks. The shoes and buskins were of the German fashion, very broad at the toes, and of velvet and satin, slashed and puffed. The hats, caps, and bonnets were of almost endless forms and colors, The dress of the middle ranks in the reign of Henry VIII. may be seen in prints of the time; plain russet coats, and a loose kind of kersey breeches, with stockings of the same piece, were the ordinary suit; and the London apprentices wore blue cloaks in summer, and gowns of the same color in winter, as badges of servitude; 'for this appears to have been the age of domestic distinctions—the relics of the feudalism of the middle ages. The women wore russet, or long woolen gowns, worsted kirtles (hereafter called petticoats), and white caps and aprons, and white underlinen came into general wear.
The principal novelty of the reigns of Edward VI. and Mary was the flat round bon net or cap, of plain velvet or cloth, worn on one side of the head, and decorated with a jewel and single ostrich feather. The bonnet itself is preserved in the caps worn at the present day by the boys of Christ's hospital; and their blue coat and yellow stock ings are such as were worn by the London apprentices at the date of the foundation of the hospital by the youthful Edward. See HOSIERY.
The male costume in Elizabeth's reign was the large trunk hose, long-waisted doub let, short cloak, hat, band, and feather, shoes with roses, and the large ruff; but the great breeches, "stuffed with hair-like woolsacks," after the separation of the hose into this garment and stockings, appear to have been worn throughout the reign; they were made of silk, velvet, satin, and damask. The doublets were still more costly, and quilted and'stuffed, "slashed, jagged, pinched, and laced;" and over these were worn coats and jerkins in as many varieties as there are days in the year. The cloaks were of the Spanish, French, and Dutch cuts, of cloth, silk, velvet, and taffeta of all colors, trimmed with gold, silver, and silk-lace and glass bugles, inside and outside equally superb. The stockings, shoes, slippers, and ruffs resembled those of the ladies.
Hats now began to supersede the bonnets of a former era. Those of beaver were exceedingly expensive, and they were for the most part made of felted wool, dyed. The most remarkable thing about these hats was their numerous shapes; some
were steeple-crowned; others were fiat and broad, like the battlements of a house; and others with round crowns, and bands of all colors, and ornamented with huge feathers, and brooches, clasps, and jewels of great value. See HAT.
As regards female the more conspicuous features in the reign of Elizabeth were the farthingale (q.v.) and ruff. The farthingale, or fardingale, .consisted in an extravagant expansion of the lower garments, by means of cane or whalebone, by which the lady seemed to walk in a kind of tub. The farthingale, which is referred to by Shakespeare, Butler, and other writers, mostly in a satiric vein, was the predecessor of the hoop, which in its turn, after an interval, was succeeded by the crinoline (q.v.) and hoop-work of steel. The widely extended ruff of fine linen, like a huge frill, is seen in the pictures of Elizabeth and her envied rival, Mary queen of Scots, both stars of F. in their day.
Under James I., the male costume was somewhat more Spanish, as respects the slashing and ornamenting.of the doublet and breeches. Late in the reign, however, the jackets or doublets were shortened, and the breeches reduced in size, and fastened in large bows at the knees; the well-stockinged leg was admired, and the hat worn low in the crown, and with broad brim, as seen in portraits of the date 1619. Beards and whiskers had become almost universal in the reign of Elizabeth; but in that of James, the former was sometimes worn trimmed to a point, hanging 'down at the division of the ruff.
In the female costume, there was little change. The farthingale continued to be worn by ladies of quality; a strong passion for foreign lace was introduced; pearls were the favorite jewels; and the ruff maintained its sway, so as to be anathematized from the pulpit; and the fancies of female costume were glanced at in a sermon preached before the king at Whitehall, in 1607-8, s " her French, her Spanish,, and her foolish fashions." The F. of dress in the reign of Charles I. became still more decidedly Spanish and picturesque. There were now worn collars of rich point-lace, large and hanging down on the shoulders, held by a cord and tassel at the neck, and now called Vandyke, from its being the most striking part of the dress in which Vandyke at that time painted portraits.
The principal habits were vests and cloaks of velvet, or silk damask, short-trousered breeches terminating in stuffed rolls, and fringes and points, and very rich boots, with large projecting lace tops. A dress of Charles is thus described: A falling band, green doublet (from the armpits to the shoulders wide and loose), zigzag turned-up ruffles, long green breeches (like a Dutchman's), tied below the knee with yellow ribbons, red stockings, green shoe-roses, and a short red cloak lined with blue, with a star on the shoulder; the king sometimes wore a large cravat, and at other times a long falling band with tassels. The dress of the gay courtiers or cavaliers consisted of a doublet of velvet, silk, or satin, with large loose sleeves, slashed, and embroidered; Vandyke collar and band, and short embroidered cloak, worn on one shoulder; the long breeches, fringed and pointed, met the ruffled tops of the boots; the embroidered sword-belt was worn over the Tight shoulder, and in it was hung a Spanish rapier, and in the flapping beaver hat was worn a plume of feathers confined by a jewel. A buff coat or jerkin was often worn, as a better defense than the doublet, which it sometimes covered.