Grecian Art.—The read bloom of Greek civilization is Grecian art, poetic as well as its constructive art, both of which possess the merit of being perfect in their form. The study of this subject, however, falls within a province different from ours. (See Vols. III. and IV.) Moreover, in confining our attention to a consideration of the people themselves we must furthermore resign the privilege which history grants us of repre senting its great men; still, the duty of determining the basis of that wonderful development is as grateful as it is necessary.
Physical in its physical characteristics the Hel lenic race differs entirely from all peoples heretofore considered. Though the Egyptians, according to their ancient and uncertain traditions, con sidered the Greek sages who visited them as mere children, still the phys iognomy of the former proves that they themselves occupied a far lower grade of human development. And although we admit that here, as everywhere, art exceeds reality, and that Greek sculpture can by no means be considered a standard of the physical structure of its creators, still the skulls that have been preserved from the classic period prove that their owners must have been individuals of very normal characteristics. Their black eyes and dark hair prove that the prehistoric life of this people must have been passed in a southern clime. The men were of a brunette complexion—not brown, like the people of the Nile Valley, and still less like the later Hindus, but of such a shade as can be sufficiently explained by their scant attire and their fondness for the open air. The women, being less exposed, had the white skin of the Caucasian race.
Costume.—Plate 21 affords a survey of the development of Greek cos tume. We may indeed infer from descriptions as early as those of Homer that it was essentially the same in his day as at the conclusion of their history—namely, consisting of gown-like under-garments and a cloak-like wrap. We cannot, therefore, speak of an historical development of dress among the Greeks, such as we find among the more northern peoples. The only changes introduced were in the decoration of the various gar ments. A development occurred only in so far as in individual cases the customary dress was worn more or less complete. That the Greeks at one time wore merely skins may be inferred even from their later art productions. But in their representations of contemporary society skins
are, no longer found, although it may be assumed that less progressive tribes—as, for example, the Arcadian shepherds—had worn them continu ously, and did not adopt them anew.
In the times of early authentic history the better part of society was accustomed to wear garments of wool and linen; by means of commerce cotton also, and finally silk, were acquired and used. Strong contrasts of colors in the separate pieces of the dress were in use, but white remained continuously the choicest. Only moderate decoration of the edges of the garments with geometrical designs was indulged in by either sex. Besides embroidery, another kind of ornament consisted of designs beaten out of thin gold and stitched on the dress. Fully conscious of their physical advantages, they always held these advantages to be of greater import ance, and all of them—the Doric Spartans even more than the Ionian Athenians—confined their clothing to the necessary protection of the body.
Nothing can be conceived simpler than the cut of the Greek garments. A square piece of material reaching from the neck to the knee, folded together lengthwise and supplied at the upper closed side with an opening for the arm, the open side being joined over the right shoulder and fast ened with a brooch (fibula), girded about the waist, and perhaps sewed together under the arm,—such was the coat (chi/on, r) of the men.
The same garment was customary among the women, but with this difference, that the piece in front (honiaVidiarion) was lunch longer at the top, so that it might be turned down at the neck, and might hang over the bosom to the waist for greater warmth—an arrangement which was sometimes also repeated on the hack. Underneath the chiton was worn a band of cloth (krnia) to support the breasts, and in addition to this a cord was sometimes crossed round the breasts outside the chiton to assist either in supporting them or in bringing out their form. The short chiton of the men was likewise worn by the Spartan maidens (pl. fig. 9), who were enthusiastic votaries of gymnastic exercise. The garment of the Athenian women reached down to the feet, and was either open on the side (chiton schisios, .fig. 7) or closed all around (fig. 8).