Besides the chiton, the Greeks wore the chlamys 5), a mantle buttoned on the right shoulder and reaching to the knees, thus entirely covering the left arm and leaving the right arm and side unobstructed. It served particularly as the apparel of young people, and had the decided advantage of convenience.
The garment required for dignity and for ceremonious occasions was a mantle, the &illation (Jigs. 3, 4), which, accordingly, was preferred by more elderly people. The noble Athenians wore it of fine Milesian wool, and took special care to drape it in artistic folds about the body. It was first thrown over the left shoulder, leaving a short end to hang down in front; the long end was then gathered round the back with the right hand, brought under the right arm, and across the body iu front, and finally held in this position by being thrown over the left forearm (fig. 3). Or, instead of being passed under the right arm, it could be brought over the right shoulder, so as to envelop the right arm, then carried closely round the neck, and finally thrown over the left shoulder, with an end hanging down behind. In order to attain greater smoothness of effect they weighted the ends with bits of metal in such manner as to form tassel-like appendages. As it consisted merely of a large oblong piece, it could be fastened only by folding it about the body and holding it with the hands. Etiquette required the hands to be concealed under the gar ment, which was all the easier as this dress was not adapted for work. But one hand was necessarily uncovered in carrying a staff (fig. 3), etc.
The laborers wore the exontis (fig. 2), which consisted of a smaller piece of material loosely thrown about the figure in the manner just described, but girded and leaving the •right arm uncovered. For a long time the latter garment was not adopted by the women; the double chiton (fig. io) constituted for them the additional covering which was sometimes needed under the Grecian sky. Its peculiarity consisted in this, that, being much longer than the entire figure, it was not only turned down at the top, but was drawn up on both sides, and girded in such manner as to fall in full folds over the belt, thus forming a triple covering.
Children often went about naked, or at the most were provided with a sort of little shirt or tunic (fig. 6), which was put on by inserting the head through an opening in the centre.
The Greeks endeavored to exclude Asiatic wealth and luxury; still, we learn from the comedies of Aristophanes that vanity greatly prevailed among them, and that even in times of greatest need the women were much concerned about their personal adornment. Thus, Greece too had its period of luxury in dress, though not during the palmy days of the republics. This luxury consisted partly in wearing the different garments at the same time; partly in the use of costly materials; and partly in profuse adornment. Thus we see in Figure 19 (N. 21) the chiton and .chlamys worn together, and in Figure 15 the himation decorated with a broad border.
As might be expected, the women went farther in this direction than the men. The first object of their care was the fold (hemidiploi'dion) which hung over the breast, and which was lengthened in front so as to be clasped in the belt. When the garment was also lengthened at the back, a second, shorter chiton was formed over the longer, a sort of over-dress above the under-garment (fig. IS), and sometimes, the shorter chiton being cut like a jacket (fig. 17), each was worn as a separate piece. The long pieces hanging on each side as well as at the front and back were cut in graceful curves, and these, together with the artistic folding, gave to the costume a very rich appearance. This kind of bodice was also worn as a separate piece, and the under-garment was drawn up so as to afford a covering for the upper arm, forming a kind of sleeve, which was fastened on the out side by a row of small clasps or buttons 19).
Two long garments instead of one were also worn, in which case the upper was shorter than the lower, and when possible was made of fine transparent material. True cloak-like upper-garments like the hiniation were worn by the Greek women of the later period, either small ones in the shape of a shawl (ampecnonthn, fig. i6), or long draped garments (figs. 11-13) exactly like the himation of the men.