Head-eiress.—Much as the Greeks valued costume for setting off per sonal beauty—for they made the art of draping a formal branch of study —its use as a distinguishing mark of the different classes of society, such as we have noted in the despotisms heretofore considered, was scarcely known to them. Thus they lacked the head-covering which in Egypt and Asia constituted the mark of royal, priestly, and other dignities; this was used by them only when the actual need for it existed. If any pro tection were necessary, a wreath of leaves (figs. 14, 15) sufficed to shield the face from the burning rays of the sun. A simple ribbon wound about the head (jigs. 2-4), the ends hanging clown on the back of the neck, held the long hair in place. Persons engaged in labor that might endanger the head wore a plain pointed cap of wool, felt, or leather (Ac. 71, which was sometimes strengthened with a (p1. 25, fig. 5). In hunting, travelling, etc. a hat was worn with a more or less broad rim (fig-. 5). The shape of the head-covering depended entirely on the taste of the individual, and in all its simplicity showed great variations.
\\Tomei] used the head-dress as an ornament, they, unlike the men, having no need for its protection. But the good old custom of gathering the hair on and about the head compelled them to wear a head-fillet or band, which was generally broadened into a diadem (p1. 21, fig . 7); and this, in order to serve its purpose more fully, was also supplied with other cap-like arrangements (jigs. 17, IS). At night, or at any time when it was desirable to have the hair close about the head, it was put into a net and wound about with a kerchief (p1. 24, fig. HD), or a tasselled skull-cap was worn. Married women wore a veil (Al. 24, fig. 8), with which the other head-decorations could be easily united.
The Greeks wore foot-covering likewise principally as a protection, yet in accordance with their sense of beauty they always wore it fitting closely. For the street and market a simple sole fastened to the foot with straps sufficed (1/. 2I, fig. 5); the shoe (fl. 25, fig. 7), which was already known, afforded greater protection, and at times extended above the ankle like a boot (fig. 5). The foot-wear of the women was similar to that of the men, only more ornamented. The straps of their shoes were of purple colored leather decorated with metal ornaments. In the course of time foreign styles influenced this article of dress also, and closed shoes were worn more frequently.
Jewelry, the Greeks only the women used jewelry; the Spartan laws forbade its use by men, and even the vain Athenians con sidered it unbecoming. Staff and ring alone were permitted, the latter serving as a seal, and therefore usually ornamented with a cut stone. Among the Spartans the ring was required to be of iron; among the other Greeks the nobles with the increase of luxury overloaded their fingers with gold rings, while they discarded the staff. Rings found acceptance
among the women only at a later time; but there was no deficiency of other jewelry—bracelets and anklets, hair-pins, chains for the neck and bosom, ear-rings, brooches, girdles, etc. (fl. 22, figs. 3-16). The diadems (figs. I, 2) mentioned above, either painted or made of gold and of vari ous shapes, constituted at all times the principal articles of ornament.
Toilet toilet articles they had small metal mirrors, combs made of bone or brass, and also fans and parasols (fig. r7). The cosmetic art, imported from Asia, passed from the &fairer to other women only at a later period, and never to such an extent as to disfigure. A more sensible means of beautifying the body, and one used daily by both men and women, consisted in bathing and in anointing both skin and hair. Both sexes bestowed great care upon the hair, which was worn long. In early times the men braided it and pinned it up into a coil on the top of the head; later, it was worn moderately short. The custom of wearing short curls and of shaving the beard was introduced under the Macedonian rule. The women were destitute neither of leisure nor invention, and before mannerism perverted them they displayed the greatest variety and the best of taste in the arrangement of their hair (fil. 24, figs. 9–rr).
principal resorts of the free Greek citizens were the gymnasium, the market-place, the theatres, etc. The dwelling-house belonged rather to the wife than to the husband; consequently, but little attention was given to it; the Greeks were lodged as simply as they were dressed. Homer, who has given us the earliest description of the Greek dwelling, knew it only after it had reached a certain degree of develop ment. When we trace it back to its original form, whence the latter was derived, we come upon the court surrounded by a wall and contain ing a hut.
The strong city-walls which have been preserved from the most ancient period prove that the Greeks well knew how to build fortifications, for which the hard stone so abundant in the country supplied the necessary material. It seems, as may be inferred from Homer, that for greater pro tection they erected wooden fences on the top of the low stone walls. The folding gate in the wall about the court of Odysseus, the strength of which the poet praises, pertained to the protection rather than to the beauty of the building. The hut of Euinaios, which lie describes, and in which we may perhaps recognize an image of the most ancient Greek habitation, consisted of but one apartment: it contained a fireplace, serving at the same time as an altar, sleeping-places for the shepherd and his servants, and so much additional room that the guest could be accommodated with a bed of branches and hides.