.Weaving.—Passiug the intermediate processes after spinning, as not differing in any feature of importance from those in other divisions of the textile trades, we come to weaving. Here again there is little to distinguish it from the same branch in the cotton trade, to which it bears a close resemblance in details. There are a great quantity of fabrics made in a plain weave, though not to such a proportion as in cotton. In the worsted trade, the complicated weaves are proportionately much more abundant, and the jacquard a far more frequent adjunct of a loom. The plain loom, as it is called, is usually fitted to weave orleans, alpacas, mohairs, and twills up to 6-8 shafts.
About the first departure from this class of loorn is the one represented in Fig. 1470. It is a single-pick rocking-box loom, with a two-holed shuttle-box, and weft motion at each end. The cylinder and boxes are on the ordinary plan, hut a tappet a is introduced upon the top or single pick shaft, which elevates a rod having a double-catch b at its extremity, connected with a slot motion working in the inclined slot-groove. Iu this groove works a single stud, projecting from a horizontal square rod placed parallel with the bottom shaft. At each end of this rod is fixed a clutch, which can slide the tappet backwards and forwards on any single pick whenever required as directed by the arrangement of the oylinclor. Three levers are provided on the cylinder, tho middle one working the tappets, the inside one the boxes at the eylinder end, and the ontside ono the boxes at the driving end, the motion being transmitted through a small rod in proximity to tho spur-rail.
Fig. 1471 represents a loom constructed for a wider range of work than the preceding, being adapted to weave complex cheeks requirinut variety of colours. Its treading or shedding arrange ment is similar to the preceding, but differs in its box capa city, 6-8 or more boxes being arranged around a common centre, and caused to revolve by an end less chain from a star-wheel in connec tion with a pegged wheel actuated by a three-rise tappet on the bottom shaft. A card motion having an eccentric and ordi nnry cylinder con nods this tappet with the catches. A novel arrangement, however, is intro duced into this loom in the shape of a eliding bowl between the three-rise tappet and the upright lever that moves to every double pick, and dmws the drag catches that pull round the boxes. This sliding bowl is actuated by the cylinder, whioli slides it baokward and forward to or upon any of the elevations of the three-rise tappet, as required, two cylinder pegs of different lengths being used to effect this object. Tho movements can " akip " or
pass ever any of the shuttle boxes, according to requirement, with facility and ease, so as to bring any desired shuttle into work. Tho complicated mechanism of this class of looms has been within reoent years brought to great perfection, thue giving certninty of fiction and relatively great speed.
Into the finishing processes of this branch there is no necessity to enter.
Carpet (Fa., Tapia; GER., Teppich). The carpet manufacture forms a considerable branch of tho worsted section of the textile industries. Floor-coverings are of great antiquity, and in general use amongst both savuge and civilized races. They were most probably suggested by the verdant clothing of the earth's surface, and consisted in early times of leaves, grasses, rushes, atraw, and similar substances of vegetable origin. Amongst pastoral races and these addicted to hunting, the skins of domestic animals and of these slaughtered in the chnse were at an early time utilized in the mune manner. It is not improbable that the art of weaving had its origin in the endeavour to obtain a cleanly and mere comfortable article than leaves and rnshes. This was realized by plait ing Or interweaving reeds from the river-bank in a manner whioh has survived to this day. In tropical climes, and the warmest of the temperate regions, these woven mats are still extensively used ; especinlly amongst the poorer classes of society. With the developtnent of the art of weaving, more luxurious coverings were devised, for which a ready demand was found amongst the rich. Ancient civil tzeti nations very early attained great skill, and displayed a high degree of refined taste in the designing and tnanufacture of carpets. Clam, India, Persia, Turkey, and Spain, under the Moorish dominion, are stated to have attnined excellence in this respect. According to ac cepted canons ot taste, the work produced in Hindoo, Persic, and Turkish looms, yet stands in the front mnk, ir not in the very first position for its indisputable eleg,anee of design and quality of product. Of late years, however, it is complained that these characteristics are undergoing deterioration, as contact with European peoples is degrading the former, and making the artistes acquainted with the processes of sophistication.