Spinning.—Spinning is the last process in the formation of the thread, and in worsted is performed on tho continuous principle by the throstle or cap-spinning machine. This is constructed on the same principle as the preceding machines, only differing in the parts being smaller and the spindles more numerous. The latter aro vertical, and rest in a footstep-rail having a bolster or bearing-rail fixed above the wharve. A traverse-rail which carries the bobbins is made to ascend and debeeud by means of a heart-shaped cam. This traverse enables the yarn to be laid upon the bobbins in even layers. Each spindle is mounted with a flier or cap, the former having curls at the extremities of the flier branches. The ravings are conducted from the creel between two rollers, the lower of which is longitudinally fluted ; next through or between three pairs of carrier-rollers, which simply bear the rove to the front or drawing-rollers, by whose accelerated apeed it is finally attenuated. Being attached to the bobbins upon the spindles, the twist or twine is put in according to require ment, a given number of turns to the inch, which is easily regulated by a change pinion. For 30's yarn, there are usually about 10 turns per inch. (See Fig. 1467, p. 2088.) Worsted weft or filling is mostly spun upon the pima, ready for the shuttle of the loom ; whilst warp yarns are spun upon the flanged bobbins, fronl which they are wound and warped in a manner scarcely differing from the processes of the cotton trade. There is, however, only a small quantity of worsted yara used for warp purposes, as, since the introduction of cotton warps, these have been (except for special purposes) almost universally adopted. They consist of good 2-fold yarns, the bulk of which are spun and doubled in the Bolton aud Oldham spinning districte of Lancashire.
The system of spinning worsted, thus briefly outlined, is that known amongst practical men as the English system. For half a century, the trade of the worstod manufacturing centres of this country, based upon this plan, has been conducted with uninterrupted progress and prosperity. Of late years, however, owing to a complete change in the current of fashion, which has been diverted to softer fabrics capable of conforming more easily and gracefully to the outlines of the female figure, worsted goods as hitherto produced in this country have been much neglected, espe cially for costume purposes. The consequence has been a great decline in the demand, unprofit able trade, and diminished employment for the work-people. The return of worsted fabrics to public favour has been anxiously waited for, but without success. This adverse state of affairs has induced much discussion, and has brought into prominent consideration the advisability of adopt ing tho French system, by which fabrics are produced very much better suited to present require ments. Tho chief cause of hesitation seems to be a prevalent doubt as to whether the taste of the public is more than temporarily alienated from fabrics produced on the English system, and whether the investments necessary for a change to the French plan might not prove a total loss. There are persons who assert that the change of fashion is not in the direction of good taste, nor in harmony with those natural principles that underlie the art of dressing. Others again dispute this con clusion, and believe the opposite, and that the change of fashion marks a decided advance in the recognition of true principles, and as a consequence it will be perfectly futile to hope for the return of Yorkshire worsted fabrics to popular favour. Te this view the writer incline3. Frona these
statements it will be obvious that any change will for a time at least not be more than partial, and. that success on the part of the pioneers of the movement will have to be assured before the step becomes anything like general.
The radical difference between the English and French systems of spinning worsted lies in the fact that all the processes of the preparation are conducted without twist being imparted to the material, and that the spinning is performed on the mule-frame in place of the throstle. Another important point of divergence is, in some instances at least, in the French plan the wool is worked dry, that is without oil, but this is not to be recommended. Starting also with a softer staple of wool, all these differences are in favour of the production of a soft fabric, that will drape easily and gracefully, and so meet the present requirements of the modiste.
When the fact is considered that the wool fibre is covered with scales, it will be apparent that to twist them together in the preparatory stage,s, in which a great deal of doubling and drawing has to take place, can hardly be a wise proceeding, as the scales are sure to interlock with each other, especially when insufficiently lubricated, the consequence being that when the drawing takes place the fibres are strained and to some extent broken, whilst a hard and wiry yarn is the product. By the plan of avoiding twist until the spinning stage is reached, the drawing is rendered easier, less waste results, and a softer yarn is produced, which is more bulky in relation to the weight.
With the object of aiding the introduction of this system into this country, an eminent firm of machinists has paid great attention to perfecting a series of machines for the English market, by which yam can be spun on the French system. The initial stages for several steps are alike. After they begin to diverge, briefly described they are as follows:— 1st Process: Carding.—In the carding-engine, the undried wool from the washing-machine is carded. It is spread by hand upon the feed-lattice, whence it passes through a pair of feed-rollers and successively into contact with three burr-rollers, the first of which is 18 in. diam. and steam heated, the second 9 in., and the third 12 in., each having guard rollers and boxes for tne reception of burrs. The burr-rollers are covered with steel teeth. This triple arrangement is an improve ment upon the single-roller system. The clothing of ea,ch differs from the preceding, being graded from coarse to fine; the effect is that the first roller throws out the coarse, large burrs ; the second, those of medium size; whilst the third cleans out the finest burrs, seeds, &c. An oiling apparatus is fixed so as to discharge its contents on the wool at this stage, when oiling is held to be desirable. Fron3 here, the wool enters into the breast, the cylinder of which is 36 in. diam., and is provided with three pair of workers and strippers, respectively 8 and 3,1 in. diam. There are two swifts, each 50 in. diem., with a complement of four workers and strippers of tbe same dimensions as those above, fancy and stripper, and angle stripper. The sliver is stripped and balled by a caleuder delivery and balling-head into balls 16 in. long.