The various parts of the machine require to be accurately adjusted, in order to perform its function properly. It is therefore usually made with compensating bearings, in order that, 1..f unequal wear should take place, no defect in its working would result. This arrangement is applied to all the acting parts.
At the second raising, the cloth is damped and conditioned as before, and well raised, after which it is again ten tered and dried as a pre liminary to the second shearing.
This shearing is like the first, only requiring more care and a nicer adjustment of the piling brushes and the cutting blades. The cloth must be gone over several times, and nicely cut each time.
After this, the cloth is generally submitted to a good brushing and steam ing process, performed by a machine termed the " brushing- and steam ing-mill." These mills are made either double or single, and with one or two brushes. Fig. 1464 represents a double brushing- and steaming-mill, with two brushes, one of 12 and one of 13 lags, and steaming apparatus having also a top and sloping scray.
When the brushing and steaming is concluded, the cloth is ready for the first pressing. For this purpose, it is folded into regular lengths, glazed paper being introduced between the folds to prevent the faces of the cloth coming into contact with each other. Heated plates of irou, made hot in a steam-chest or oven (Fig. 1465), wherein steam is used at 30 lb. pressure, are then alternated with each end or piece, and the whole is subjected to severe pressure in a hydraulic press. When the cloth is removed, it is re folded in such a manner as to bring the creases of the previous folding op posite the flat faces of the rress papers, by which arrangement they are removed at the second pressing.
Stearn Boiling.—This succeeds the first operation of pressing, and has for its purpose the pro duction of a permanent lustre on the face of the cloth. The cloth is wound tightly and evenly on round wooden or copper rollers, which have either a plain surface or are perforated with holes, the whole being covered with boiling-wrappers to prevent damage. Permanent and well-dried colours ought to be steam-boiled in a cistern full of water for about eight hours ; then taken out and left to cool until the following morning, when the cloth should be wound from the first upon a second roller, hy whioh process the part that was at the bottom before will be brought on the top. It should then be submitted to a second boiling for seven or eight hours. This ought
to be repeated if necessary. Mixed shades and common colours should not be boiled or heated to a higher temperature than experience has shown they will bear without injury, which will be found to range between 49° and 82° (120°-180° F.) ; but they may be dry-steamed considerably higher in a box without water.
Several varieties of cloth manufactured from undyed wool, and intended for piece dyeing are now at the stage of readiness for that operation. Thie includes the woaded or light blues, and several other colours. In piece-dyeing, it is requisite that the cloth should be kept well open and the reel con stantly turned front the time the cloth is I placed in the dye-bath until it is taken out ngain. If these details are neglected, the result will be a epotted and unevenly dyed cloth.
After the boiling and preseing has con tinued sufficiently long to fix the lustre of the cloth, it should be again put through the raieing-gig, either in a wet etate as before, or with eteam applied to the face of the piece on the top of the gig, after which it should again be well washed with cold water, tentered, and dried. It is now some times " dry-beaten," or put through the raieing-gig in a dry state, in order to loosen the nap for the last cutting process.
In the third and last cutting, especial care is taken that it ehall be cut both very light and fine until the nap ie reduced to the ehertnees required. After this, it is brushed on the dry brushieg-mill, as a preliminary to the last burling and fine drawing.
Sometimes, instead of the last hurling proceee, the web is inked with black or coloured inks. A machine has been invented to accomplish this process, and is meeting with increasing favour, espe cially in the case where cotton burls are numerouiand require coveriug. It is adapted for any class of goods, the feeder of the inldng-roller being regulated by means of a screw to take up more or less ink as required. After paseing through the inking-machinc, the fabric, ought to be put once or twice through the brushing-mill without steam, and subsequently once with eteam, which will greatly improve its appearance.