England owes its pillow-lace making industry to refugees from the Netherlands, who fled from the persecutions of the Duke of Alva, and sought an asylum in this country in the 17th century. The industry took root in the shires of Bedford, Buckingham, Oxford, Northampton, and Devon ; but the two centres which have become most distinguished and successful, are the districts embrac ing Honiton, in Devonshire, and the county of Buckingham. In the former, the manufacture of lace is carried on over a district along the coast about 30 miles in length by about 12 in breadth, which includes Seaton, Beer, Branscombe, Sidmouth, Exmouth, and the vale of Honiton.
At one time, as many as 10,000 people have been employed in the lace industry iu this district.
Honiton lace is made by placing a perforated pattern upon a pillow, and employing pine,' bobbins, and spindles to twist and interweave the threads in such a manner as may be required. In the early stages of its existence, the Devonshire industry was confined to the production of sprigs and borders, but during the past half-century, such progress has been made as to result in the manu facture of articlea of great value, displaying taste and beauty of design, and delicacy of execution. These comprise flounces, shawls, bridal veils, scarfs, handkerchiefs, &c., some of which range in value from 101. to 3001.
The Devonshire lace resembles Brussels in the mode of manufacture : but within recent years the style has changed, and the ground has been replaced by the modern guipure. The " old ground," as it is now called, was beautifully fine and regular, and made of flaxen thread procured at Antwerp, where its market price in 1790, was 70/. the lb. During the wars at the close of last century and the beginning of this, when it was difficult to obtain the yarn, smugglers who suc ceeded in getting it into the country obtained as much as 1001. for 1 lb., and the lace-makers received as much ae 18s. a yd. for making the ground of border lace not 2 in. wide. It was, how ever, with the sprigs and borders that Honiton achieved its fame. They are made separately on the pillow, and the former, in the early days of the industry, were worked in, but afterwards applied or sewn on the ground, which is now usually a machine-made net.
Beds, Bucks, and Northampton laces once stood very high in public estimation, being greatly admired for the clearness and beauty of their point grounds ; but owing to fluctuations of demand, the industry in these districts has greatly declined. Formerly the class of laces chiefly made were
narrow ones used in trimming infants' caps, robes, &c., but the fashion having changed in some respects, and machine-made goods superseding them, these have been abandoned, and the workers now produce the descriptions known as Cluny and Maltese.
There are several other descriptions of hand-made lace produced in the British Islands. Of these, the principal are British point, made in the neighbourhood of London, which is of good quality, regarded as an imitation of Brussels. Limerick lace. has achieved a wide reputation, and vast quantities have been produced. Lace-making was introduced into Ireland during the last century, but, as an industry, made very little bead-way until after machinery was adopted for the spinning of flex, which threw a large portion of the female population out of employment. Along with em broidery, lace-making began to make progress, though not to the same extent as the former. After the famine iu 1846, training-schools were established in many parts, and lace was made with consi derable success. Amongst the descriptions produced were point, guipure, imitations of ancient point, Ypres Valenciennes, tatting, and other kinds which secured public favour.
English hand lace-making has, however, always been a secondary industry compared with that of other countries. Amongst the states on the Continent, France occupies the premier place. Thirty years ago, the number of females employed in the hand-made lace industry of that country was esti mated at over 200,000, ranging in age from 7 years to an advanced time of life. It is not probable that this number is diminished, or if so, it can only be to a small extent. The money earned by each worker ranges from 6d. to ls. for a day's work of 10 hours, varying according to the demand there is for the article.
Hand-spun linen thread, cotton, wool, silk, and gold and silver thread mixed with silk, are the materials employed. About I century ago, all the white lace was made from hand-spun linen thread ; but cotton yarns, ranging in Nos, from 120's to 320's, are now almost solely used.