The hand manufacture of lace as an industry is very widely spread in France, extending over many departments. Each district is remarkable for the possession of some peculiarity of style, which is well known in the chief markets, and easily recognized by experts amongst dealers. The most important centres of production are Caen and Bayeux, Chantilly and district, Lille, Arras, Mire court, Du Pay, Baillen], and Alencon.
Caen and Bayeux, in the department of Calvados, are celebrated as the chief centres of the manufacture of silk-lace in length and piece-goods : veils, scarfs, mantles, robes, shawls, &c, The first silk blonde was made at Caen, and given that name from the fact that it was made of undyed silk. This article rose high in public favour, but subsequently the demand fell away to. very small dimensions, and, for.a long time past, the chief product has been black lace. The manufactures of these districts are widely celebrated, mainly on account of the skill of the workpeople, of whom there are 30,000-40,000 employed. The women are remarkably quick at the work, and, by means of a stitch called rucroe, join different parts together in such a manner as to be invisible to the closest scrutiny. By the use of this stitch, they are enabled to divide a task amongst a number of workers, whereby it can be completed in a much leas time than if performed by one woman.
Chantilly lace possesses most of the characteristics of the preceding, but excels it in fineness of texture, beauty of design, and perfection of workmanship. It takes its name from the birthplace of the manufacture, but its fabrication has long since spread into the neighbouring districts. The manufacture is not nearly so extensive as that of Caen and Bayeux, and is confined to the duction of articles designed to satisfy the taste of the most wealthy and luxurious classes of society.
The lace industry of Lille is said to be the oldest in France, but it has long been in a declining condition. Fond clair, or clear foundation thread-lace, was the best-known article produced here. Lille possesses several other industries which afford better-paid employment for the female portion of the population, the consequence being that laee-making has greatly declined. That of Arras is in a similar state to the above, and what remains of its manufacture is greatly wanting in novelty and good finish, but is sold at a low price, and hence meets with a demand sufficient to absorb what is made. Mirecourt, in the Vosges, makes a lace similar to that of Lille, but displays more enterprise
and taste in the introduction of new designs than either that town or Arras. This place is also noted for the production of " guipure," similar to the lace of that name produced at Honiton.
Puy, in the Haute-Loire, is a great centre of the lace industry; in the town and district, there are 30,000-40,000 people employed. A great quantity of the lace produced is coarse, of low texture, and cheap in price. Other varieties are made in thread, silk, and wool, amongst which are included "point," "point de Chaeey," and "point de Valeneienncs." Blonde, black, and white lace, and many other descriptions in every colour, especially worsted laces, are also produced.
Bailleul is the chief place in France for the manufacture of Valenciennes, its production greatly resembling that of Bruges in Belgium. The lace made here is remarkably white, and is sold at a cheap rate. It is rather thick as compared with other descriptions.
The celebrated " point d'Alencon " is a needle-made lace of the highest quality. Its manu facture was introduced into France from Italy, in 1660, by the minister Colbert, who obtained workmen from Venice and Genoa. These at first made the lace to which they had been accus tomed, called "point de Venice," and afterwards "point de France." Subsequently variations sprang up, and the manufacture then became known as "point de Alencon," from the town in which it was made. This lace is now very different from most other point laces, which need only one worker to complete the richest article, Alencon, on the contrary, requiring 12-16 different workers to complete the smallest piece of the simplest pattern. Amongst these, may be mentioned the &accuses and the reseleuses, who make the net or ground ; the bourreuses, who do the heavy portions or patterns of the lace ; the modeuses, who make the open work ; and the brodeuses, who fabricate the border destined to surround and support the patterns. This lace is now the only kind made with pure haudspun linen thread, the price of which ranges from 100/. to 120/. a lb. The women employed in making Alencon lace are extremely skilful, and the article is the strongest, finest, and richest of all laces, and commands the highest price.