The next improvement, and which greatly assisted in giving a distinct character to the lace machine, was accomplished by William Dawson, a framework-knitter, of Leicester. By the device of a wheel irregularly notched on its edge, and which in its revolution operates upon horizontal bolts or bars, retained in position by springs on their edges, it effects auch a displacement of the threads by this lateral movement, that a figure is wrought in the fabric according to the required design. These wheels are still known by the name of the inventor, who acquired considerable means by his invention, but squandered his wealth almost as fast as it was made, and, disappointed at not getting a renewal of his patent, died by his own hand.
The organ-barrel was the first embodiment of an attempt to obtain variegated productions in lace fabrics; this was followed and improved upon by Dawson's wheels, and finally perfected in the jacquard attachment, and the varied forms which the latter, in the hands of succeeding inventors, has assumed.
After the application of Dawaon'a wheels to the lace-frame in 1807, improvements followed one another in rapid succession. These can only be briefly enumerated. In the last-named year, the spotting-bar and wheels were invented ; two years later, two-course silk-net was produced; and in 1811, dividing-bars were invented by Daycock and Morrison, which enabled them to make ailk blonde. In 1816, warp-pearling was introduced by Fowkes and Kirkman. A new net called " mock t wist " next followed; and in 1822, warp-tattings were invented by Copestake and Read. In 1824, Hardy succeeded in spotting and figuring the above-mentioned mock-twiat. Between 1830-5, there was a great demand for the productions of the warp-machine, which had attained the front rank of fashion, and won the favour of the Queen.
A most important improvement was made in 1839, when Draper successfully applied the jacquard machine to the warp lace-frame, by which its capacity was wonderfully extended, and articles of elaborate design, such as shawls, scarves, falls, and laces, were easily produced. Many other kinds of fabric besides lace were also made upon the warp-frame, such as elastic woollen cloth, hat bands, glove-cloth, piece velvet, and velvet pile ornamented lace. Herbert, of Nottingham, an ingenious man, by successive improvements, made tattinga, cords, and braidings. Others followed who made taffeta, single and double looped. The warp lace-machine has been a source of great wealth to Nottingham and surrounding district, and has laid the foundation of many considerable fortunes amongst those who were beat acquainted with its capacity, and knew how to utilize its advantages.
But the most important invention connected with the mechanical production of lace, judging from both its principles and results, was the bobbin-net machine of John Heathcoat. All others had been modifications of the hosiery-machine, making looped fabrics. Much ingenuity, skill, and
money were expended by different schemers to produce, by mechanical appliances, a perfect imitation of pillow-lace. John Heathcoat was a man of rare mechanical genius, and, having formed the conception of achieving this result, bent the whole of his energy and skill to its accomplishment.
In some pillow-lace, one set of threads extend in a wave-like line longitudinally through the fabric, like the warp threads of a plain fabric ; the other set take a diagonal course right and left, and axe twisted round the first set, by which means hexagonal meshes axe formed. All inventors previous to Heatheoat had been foiled in the attempt to accomplish the diagonal traverse of the threads. He achieved this by a plan patented in 1808, in which the bobbins were made to traverse the warp from side to side, twisting around the warp threads in their passage, and forming an exact and perfect imitation of the net ground of pillow-lace., The machine on which this was accomplished was of limited capacity, making lace no wider than could be pro duced on the cushion, while a great desideratum was the production of wide laces that should obviate the necessity of joining the narrow strips together. Heathcoat, discovering this, laid his first effort aside, and nine months after, patented a second, which quite revolutionized the trade. Speaking of this attempt at a subsequent period, he says, "The value of lace is so much enhanced by its being made of greater width, that I was determined to make it even a yard wide. At this time (after his first success), I had arrived at the important point that having actually made lace as above described, I had satisfied myself that my principles were sound and well based. But I now clearly found out that, while half the threads must be active, the other half might be passive, and therefore put the latter on a beam. Having thus fixed the warp to accomplish my wish for making wider lace, I tried to bring the threads to twist in a narrower compass. I first tried a machine with the bobbins spread out ; then I tried the fiat bobbin. The first flat bobbin machine was a single tier. I carried up the threads by means of a steeple top on the carriage. Great difficulty was expe rienced in getting bobbins and carriages thin enough, the space in which they were to move being so limited. At last I was driven to the double tier, and thus obtained the requisite space." This, when perfected, became the double-tier " Old Loughborough machine," so called from the place where it was constructed ; it was able to make lace of any breadth required. This was the first successful traverse bobbin-net machine, and brought to its inventor, along with a great amount of litigation in order to protect himself from infringements of his rights, a very handsome competence.