The yarns thus spun may be either for warp or weft. The former constitutes the longitudinal threads of a woven fabric, and is usually well twisted ; the latter forms the transverse or cross threads, and generally contains rather less twine than that intended for warp.
MANuFAcrrunnua.—The processes up to this point form the first half of those comprised in the term•woollen inanufacturing, and are termed woollen spinning. The second half, or manufac turing, will require comparatively brief treatment.
The woollen thread as it comes from the mule will be natural, grey, blaok, or any other colour, according to the component parts of the blend from which it has been spun. When dyed in the loose fibre, wool is termed " wool-dyed"; when in the state of yarn, " yarn-dyed "; and when in the woven fabrio, " piece-dyed." Twisting or Twining.—Woollen yarns are generally used in a twofold form: that is, two threads are twisted together to obtain strength, bulk, and variety of pattern. This twieting process is done upon the mule, which is generally adapted for both spinning and twiating. In eombiniog two threads, care must be taken to twiet them in a direction opposite to that in which the individual threads were spun. This is in order to prevent it afterwards running into kinke. The twisting ie performed by placing the threade in the creel, bringing them under the rollers, and attaching two threads to each spindle, when the twisting is performed as in the spinning process. To make self ooloured twist only needs the combination of two threads which are alike. To produce fancy yarne, it ie neceseary to combine different, which may be harmonious or contrasting shades or colours of yarns, and which may also be of different materials : wool, silk, cotton, flax, China-grass, or other fibrous materials. Although twisting is ordioarily performed upon the mule yet it is in process of being euperseded. Messrs. Sykes of Huddersfield have introduced into the market a twisting frame whioh has been extensively adopted, and is found to give very satisfactory results. In pre-. ceding articles (see Rope, pp. 1699-1701 ; Silk Manufactures, pp. 1751-3) a more recent invention, a doubling-winding, and a twisting-frfune, made by Thomae Unsworth of Manchester, has been referred to and illustrated. The employment of these two machines for twisting purposee effects a very large eoonomy when compared with the ordinary method, ae is demonstrated by the following figures. At an important menufacturing establishment at Tourcoing in N. France, where these
machines have been introduced, a comparison has been instituted, and the following results arrived at :—A 200-spindle machine making on the top or delivery spindle 4500 rev., and front spindle 4500 = 9000 rev. per minute, working 3-fold 48's worsted, produces in a week of 81 hours, 420 kilo. of twisted yarn of a very high quality. This is done at a cost in wages of, for winding, 75 fr. 60 c. ; for twisting, 20 fr., total 95 fr. 60 c. = 22 c. per kilo., as against a production in the same mill on a good ordinary system, and a machine containing the eame number of spindles, running the same hours and working the same yarns, of 250 kilo., at a cost for winding of 45 fr., for twisting, 40 fr., total 85 fr. = 34 G. per kilo. In the latter system, two girls are required at tho twisting-frame, whilst in the former, only one is needed. It is obvious that a regard for economy will compel the adoption of the improved methods now being introduced to the notice of manufacturers.
Designing.—At th,is stage, the services of the designer are called into requisition. Designing patterns for fancy woollen cloths implies the classing or arranging of the contrasting and harmonizing shades or colours, both of the warp and weft, by the combination of which in a fabric chaste and saleable patterns are produced in the cloths. Many colours may be employed in the warp, which, if crossed by a plain weft, would produce stripes; or an equal, greater, or less number of colours may be used for the weft, when a checked effect would result. By the transposition of these coloured threads in the warping and weaving, an endless variety of plaids and etripes of various dimensions can be produced. Combinations of patterns may also be obtained in great number from the use of two or three colours of warp and weft. As each lot of yarn is twisted according to instructions, a ticket is generally attached, expressing the lot and numbers, the length, and the breadth. The length is stated in " strings " of 10 ft. or 120 in., and the breadth in " porties " of 40 threads each. When the warp is to have stripes in it, one set or complete pattern is usually drawn on the ticket as a guide to the warper and weaver.