Warping.—The warping mill, in which the yarn is combined into a warp, is a large vertical reel of about 20 ft. in circumference, or two standard " strings." The band warping-mill is only half the size of the preceding, and in small manufactories is yet in use. The length of the warp is varied according to requirement. The best way of warping is to arrange the threads in even numbers, say 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, or 60 threads in a " bunch " or " gang," and to divide them into four equal parts, that is 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, on the under leash-pins. The number of bobbins or cope required should be set in the creel, and the threads be conducted through the eyelets of the guide pins, one half above the other, each thread thus being alternated, which will leave a space between them. The warper then collects and ties the whole bunch of threads together, inserts his thumb into the open space, and crosses every thread upon the top pins, eo as to form the leash. The reel is next set in motion, which 113 continued until the length of the warp has been reeled, when the leash is again taken on the pins, and this process is repeated a sufficient number of times until the proper quantity of threads is obtained to form the width of the warp or chain. When this is com pleted, the end is securely tied to prevent entanglement, the leashes are secured with bands of yarn, and the warp is well marked at each " string " for the guidance of the weavers. To each warp is also supplied a number of " listing " threads, of stronger yarn than that forming the bulk, from which the lists or selvedges of the cloth are woven. About 100-120 of these threads are required to form the two selvedges of a broad cloth, and about half that quantity for a narrow width fabric. The warp is usually made in the form of a chain in the woollen trade. Thie is simply a peculiar arrangement of the warp.
Bizing.—The nature of the raw material, and the method of manufacture of the woollen thread in which the fibres are crossed in various directions, render the process of sizing a necessity. The purpose of sizing is to lay smoothly in a parallel direction all the protruding fibres on the surface of the yarn, so a,s to diminish the friction ; and to eolidify the threads and increase the strength, to fit the warp for the reception of the weft, and to enable it to withstand the strain occurring when the latter is driven home by the " slay " or batten. The process is of considerable importance, as the production of good cloth requires that it shall be well and eveuly performed. It is also highly necessary to the weaver, as when properly executed, her labour is much less ; and, weaving being usually piece-work, the production is greater, and her earnings larger. The chain or warp is generally immersed in a vessel containing the sizing preparation, and when thoroughly saturated it is squeezed out, either by band or by a wringing-machine constructed for the purpose. The
" size " is usually some strong glutinous matter, sufficiently firm to lay down the somewhat refractory fibres of the wool. A good size is composed of prepared rabbit skins dissolved by boiling in water for about three hours. After the warp has been properly sized, it should be thoroughly dried, which is accomplished either by laying it at length, or winding it on a drying-machine to prevent injurious consequences.
Beaming.—Beaming is the winding of the warp upon the loom-beam. It is accOmplished by the aid of a simple machine called the " beaming-frame," The first care of the beamer is to lay or dis tribute the threads of the warp evenly in the ravel, a coarsely-set reed or frame, the upper part of which is removable, in order to permit of the warp threads being placed between the vertical pins or teeth, which having been done, the top or cap is secured. A rod, which fits into a slot or groove extending the length of the flanged beam, is next inserted into tbe cnd of the warp. The warp is then wound evenly and tightly upon the beam. Should the winding not be perfectly level, defects would be cauqed in the cloth, owing to the different tensions at whieli the warp threads would be woven, some being slack, and others tight, which would afterwards result in nneven miiling, and other defects in tho finishing processes. When the warp has all passed upon the beam, two rods arc inserted in the leash formed by the top pins of the warping-frame, which, being tied together, secure the perfect alternation of the threads.
Drawing-in and Twisting.—Tho warp is now reedy for attaching to the healde or harness. In the CAISO of a new eet of healds being required, the beam is suspended in a frame, or by means of etrong cords, with the warp end failing- a short.distance down. The " healder" or " drawer-in " takes hie eeat in front of the healde, and a child assistant called a " reacher" site at the baek. The former opens the healds in succession, and puts through the eyelets a small hook constructed for the purpo,e, called a " heald-" or " reed-hook," into the eyelet of which the reacher inserts one or two threads, as the hook may be single or double, .which are then drawn through to the front by the drawer-in. Iu this manner he proceeds until all the warp-threads are thus entered, and the drawing-in or healding is complete. Simultaneously with this operation the threads are also drawn into or through the reed by the drawer-in. One thread is drawn through the eyelet of each heald, and two through eaeh space between the dente of the reed, when the design is to make a plain fabric ; three, four, five, or six threads may be drawn through each reed space for various sorts of twills and fancy clothe. The warp is now ready for the loom, which introduces the laet principal operation, eubsequent ones being subsidiary to this, and variable according to the nature and purposes for which the fabric is intended.