Such is the woolleu loom as made at present. There are numerous other makers, whose machines are equally deserving attention with the one illustrated, and before deciding, an intending purchaser should carefully examine those in the market, and select the one that will best suit his requirements.
In weaving plain cloth, four leaves of healds are usually employed, though only two are necossary. These are arranged to work in pairs, as follows : 1-2, 3-4. The first two ascend and descend together, and similarly the second pair, each pair being linked in the treading-motion. If the threads of the warp passed in the same order through the healds, the consequence would he that the threads would be placed in pairs side by side in the fabric. But this is nut the case : the threads being passed through the healds in the following order, 1-3, 2-4, the first twu of these going together in the space formed by two dents of the reed, and the second pair in the next space. This order prevails across the width, until, at the sides, where more strength is required, the threads are doubled or run two together through one heald, and four in the reed space. Sometimes threads of other materials are used for this purpose. By this means, the weft thread is made to pass through the warp shed in such a manner that it shell be placed in an alternate manner under and over the threads of the warp. This constitutes a plain cloth.
The first departure or variation from the plain fabric is to the 3-leaved twill, in which every third thread of the warp is sunk in succession, the picks of weft passing over one and under tao threads of the warp. This texture gives a diagonal pattern to the cloth on cue side, the reverse being plain. In this case, the heald-leaves are actuated independently of each other, and not cou. jointly pairs as above. This texture is termed the " prunel," or " blanket," and sometimes the " llama" twill. The 4-leaved twill sends the weft under three threads in succession and over the fourth, by which the latter is interwoven. The name of this is the "Cassimerc" or " Kersey " twill. There are other variations of the 4-leaved twills, iu one of which the weft passes under two and over two, making both sides alike, except that on the face or front the diagonal liue, whioh forms the patter!), runs to the right, and that on the back or reverse to tbe left. Others are
variations on this basis. The 5-leaved twill (lushes four-fifths of the weft on the back, and fonr fifths of the warp on the face. The number of leaves may be increased up to 16 or even more, but when they exceed 5, they are generally employed in woollen fabrics iu conjunction with the jacquard attachment for the production of a variety of fancy patterns.
In the woolleu manufacturing districts, weavers do not usually attend to more than one loom, as it is highly neeessary for them to bestow upon their work the most careful attention, in order to prevent defects, the occurrence of which would damage the cloth in the estimation of the purchaser very considerably, and in some cases render it linmerchantable. These defects are techuically called " broken picks," " doubles," " thick threads," " raws," " gerners," " flakes," " twists," and malty others, which it is not necessary to stop to define. Warp threads occasionally break, and if the weaving is continued without these being repaired, a defect is caused. In piecing them, care must be taken to join them by means of a short length of thread, called a " thrum" or " beetiug," of the same quality and colour as the broken one. These thrums sre provided for the purpose.
To secure a full production and a proper quality of cloth, the overlooker, or " tuner," as he is called, should be careful to see that the parts of the loom are properly adjusted to each other, su that all will work together in harmony. Otherwise delays, fractures of yarn, and defects will be numerous, the quantity and quality of the production will suffer, aud ultimately the reputation el the mayuractiirer will be injured.
The actual production of cloth from a loom engaged in weaving woollen fabrics will be about 20 per cent. less than would be supposed from a calculation based on the assumption that the limn was continuously working during the hours allowed by law. 'The time thus lost is absorbed in chaugiug shuttles : that is, supplying full for exhausted ones; piecing- warp threads, and other necessary operations.