Door

DOOR A bookcase of pleasing craftsman design is illustrated in Plate 18.

Plain-sawed red or white oak will be suit able. If a soft wood is desired, chestnut will finish nicely. Whatever wood is used, care should be taken to get pieces which will not warp—pieces which have been sawed across the heart of the log as nearly as possible.

There will be needed for the shelves five pieces of stock, mill-planed to seven-eighths of an inch thick, with a width of twelve inches, and a length of three feet; for the sides, two pieces mill-planed to a thickness of one and one-eighth inches, with a width that will finish twelve inches, and a length of five feet. The dimensions for the piece across the top are three-quarters by four by thirty inches.

The back, if simply finished, will require enough three-eighths-inch matched and beaded "ceiling" to cover a space thirty by fifty-two inches. The amount to be ordered will depend somewhat upon the width of the pieces; allow ance must be made for the matching. Narrow ceiling will look better and show shrinkage less than wide. Order about one-third more than the surface to be covered, if the narrow is to be used. Whitewood might be used for the back, and shellaced natural; or it may be made of the same material, and finished the same as the rest of the case.

The door will require four pieces of stock mill-planed to seven-eighths, with a width of one and three-quarters and a length of thirty inches; one piece of the same thickness and length, with a width of three and one-quarter inches. These are for the rails. The stiles require two pieces seven-eighths by two and one-quarter by fifty one inches.

The keys may be got from the waste stock.

All mill marks must be removed. A smooth plane set very shallow should be used first, and this followed with the cabinet scraper. The door would better be surfaced and scraped after it has been put together; but all other pieces should be planed, scraped, and sandpapered first.

Begin work by squaring two shelves from the seven-eighths-inch stuff to a width of eleven and one-fourth by thirty-four and three-fourths inches (Fig. 81). With the knife, steel square,

and the panel gauge, lay off the two tenons at either end of each piece. It is a good plan to use the joint-edge for the back edge, and to mark all measurements from this edge on both shelves and side pieces. This will insure corresponding spacings of the tenons and mortises, whereas to measure from both edges would make the spacing dependent upon the widths of the pieces. The length of the tenons is three inches, and care must be taken to have the length between the shoulders on all the shelves equal. Fig. 81 gives the spacings from which the gauge set tings may be figured. The back edge is the top edge in the drawing.

The mortises for the keys should be laid out before the shoulders of the tenons are cut out. It will be noted that the mortise is laid off one and three thirty-seconds inches from the shoul der of the tenon. This allows one thirty-second of an inch, since the side is one and one-eighth thick, to insure the key being forced against the side piece.

The mortise for the key should be laid out on both top and bottom sides by means of square and gauge. The top of the mortise is seven-eighths of an inch long by one-half an inch wide. The bottom of the mortise is but three-quarters of an inch long, the front surface of the mortise being sloped one-eighth of an inch.

These mortises are best cut by first boring a hole, then chiseling from this hole out toward the lines. Cut half-way through; then turn the board over, and finish.

The tenons are to be sawed to the lines ac curately. The inner shoulder is "got at" by boring a hole on the waste wood at a corner, inserting a keyhole saw, and sawing a kerf long enough to allow the crosscut saw to enter. Finish with this saw. Keep the cut away from the knife line about one-eighth of an inch, and finish with the wide chisel and mallet, cutting half-way from each side.