PLACING RADIATORS Advantage is taken of the open spaces under the stools to hide the radiators, which are more or less unsightly. For direct radiation, the radiator is simply placed within the box and a register pro vided in the face of the panel back, through which the heat passes.
A much better method of heating, when it is possible to place the radiators in the position described, is known as semi-direct heating and consists of the introduction of fresh air, from without the house, to the base of the radiator, from which point it passes up through the sections of the radiator, warming as it goes up, and out through the register to the room. The advantage of this method is that it provides ventilation for the room and supplies it with fresh warm air for heating; whereas, with the direct radiation, no ventilation is provided and the air that is warmed is that which is already within the room, and in most cases it is not very fresh.
A cast iron register, about the size of a brick, is provided in the face of the wall and connected with the base of the radiator by means of a small gal vanized iron duct. The fresh cold air from out side the house enters through this passage and is controlled by means of a damper within the duct.
In severely cold weather the damper may be closed entirely and the radiator used for direct radiation.
When radiators are boxed in as shown, they should be set within a galvanized iron box, or the stool, panel back and other surrounding woodwork should be lined with galvanized iron as a protection against fire.
Frequently the radiator is placed under the window stool, but not boxed in. In such a case the inside of the brick wall below the stool is furred and plastered two coats, scratch and brown, and a panel back provided immediately in front of plaster and behind the radiator. The stool, which is wide, is supported on two wooden brackets, one under each pilaster, and about the same width as pilaster. This, however, is only for direct radi ation. The underside of the stool should be covered with galvanized iron. The radiator, which
is exposed in the room, should be neatly finished.
A double hung sash window in a brick wall, with inside blinds folding in a slanting box.
The brick wall is thirteen inches thick and the opening is spanned on top by a stone lintel four inches deep, eight inches longer than the width of the opening, and four brick courses in height. Back of the lintel, the inner two-thirds of the wall is carried across the opening on a rowlock arch turned over a wood center. Rowlock arches are usually made with one rowlock for each eighteen inches or fraction thereof, in the width of the opening, and are segmental in form with a one inch rise for each foot of span. Key bricks of the lower rowlocks should not be set until the arch is ready for the key bricks of the top rowlocks. The centers for the arches are usually set by the carpenter under the direction of the mason. Tem porary centers for face arches, should not be struck until the mortar with which arches are laid, has thoroughly set and hardened.
The window frame is set so as to give a four inch reveal. The joint between the brick jamb or lintel and the wood frame is covered with a moulded staff head nailed to the frame. This staff head should be moulded in such a manner as will give a channel or deep recess on the side ad joining the brickwork.
The opening on the exterior has a stone sill two brick courses in height, eight inches longer than the width of the opening, and of a proper depth to extend under the wood sill at least two inches. The stone sill is cut with a wash and has raised lugs or stools at each end to receive the brick jambs or imposts. The underside of projecting portion is cut with a water nose or drip. The sill should be bedded in mortar at each end under the imposts but should not be bedded in the center, as any settlement of the building would be likely to crack it if bedded. When building is nearly com pleted, the open space or joint under the sill should be pointed up with mortar, worked well into the joint.