We dismiss these speculations in order to consider what remains of the actual life of the Americans. We begin in the north.
Dress and dress of the Eskimos consists of an upper garment, of sealskin; a middle garment, extending from the waist to the knees, of bear- or dogskin; and boots, of turned sea-dogskin with soles of whalebone. The upper garment, always furnished with a hood, which can be turned down (p1. 29, fig. 7), and which they like to trim with fine furs, is lined with the skins of sea-birds. They often wear several coats, one over the other. Everything is neatly sewn with sea-dog sinews and bone needles (p1. 29, figs. 4, 6, 7; /54 30, figs. 2, 12, 13, 14). In the inte rior of their dwellings, which they keep very hot, they go about almost naked (p1. 29, fig. 5). Peculiar caps of artificially bent wood, decorated with carved whalebone or glass beads, and also with the highly-valued beard-bristles of the sea-lion, are, or were, a principal ornament of the Aleutians (pl. 30, fig. 14; pl. 31, fig. 2), and similar ornaments are worn by the western Eskimos (p1. 29, fig. 3). The Kolushes arid also the Californians (pl. 40, figs. I, 3) wear, where they have not received cloth ing from the Russians, besides a covering around the loins, only a blanket of homespun wool or a skin, which they throw about the shoulders like a cloak and tie at the neck (fi/. 31, figs. 5, t t). Gene rally they are nude.
The north-eastern Indians (from the Yukon to Florida) had a similar attire (p1. 31, fig. 15); their garments—a blanket, shirt, pantaloons, and moccasins (p1. 32, figs. 1, 3; pl. 33, figs. t, 6)—were mostly made of leather, which they skilfully prepared, painted (pl. 38, fig. 6), and em broidered (p1. 31, fig. 15; pl. 32, Jig. 3). They also had woven materials made of buffalo-hair and of plant-fibres, and handsome cloaks made of feathers. Feathers or caps made of them were worn especially at their dances (p1. 33, fig. 2). The Californians also sometimes pasted feathers over their entire bodies, as is shown by the picture of the dancer (p1. 40, fig. 7).
An especial festive ornament was made by sewing feathers to a piece of red material, which was worn along the back like a long bristling inane (pl. 33, fig. 6). Feathers served to decorate the pipes of peace (pl.
32, fig. is), also as emblems of various deeds (p1. 31, fig. 12; P. 32, fig. I; pl. 33, fig. 5; fi/. 34), according to the bird to which they belonged, the manner in which they were placed, the place where they were worn— whether on the head, the spear, etc. (p1. 33, figs. 6)—and the shape which was given them, either the quill or the plume being split and faced with red (p1. 36, fig. 2). As a matter of course they had necklaces (p1. 40, fig. 2) and other ornaments.
The so-called wampum-belts (fi/. 36, fig. 9), of polished shells or colored glass beads, were highly valued, and played a prominent part as gifts pre sented on the occasion of treaties. In the house they gathered their long hair into a knot, and generally removed their superfluous garments (pl. 33, Jig. 5; p1. 35), also at dances (p1. 33, fig. 2; p1. 34). The women dressed much like the men, only with less ornament and without feathers (p1. 32, jig. 3). Snowshoes (p1. 32, figs. 18, 19) are worn in different shapes by the different peoples. The Eskimo tribes and the Atlmbascas use glasses to protect the eyes from the glare of the snow (p1. 30, . 5; p1. 32, fifr. 13).
The attire of the natives of South-western North America, who are related to the Mexicans, can be seen on Plate 36 (fig. 3), Plate 42 (figs. 3, 5, 6, 9), Plate 43 (Ar. I); the costumes and materials of Figures 3 (p1. 36) and 5 (p1. 42) are of European origin. The South Americans gen erally wear a belt around the hips and cloaks about the shoulders. They are frequently nude, the men concealing only the foreskin or covering the member with leaves or pieces of stuff (pt. 46, fig..]; pl. 47,1ig. II; p1. 4S, fig. 4). Our illustrations nmke further descriptions superfluous. Feather ornaments, although not of such special significance as in the North, are popular (p1. 44, jigs. I, 3, 5, 6, 7, 9, to, I T ; 45, figs. S; pt. 216, Afr. 3; fig-s..4, 12 ; fig. 2); also chains about the neck, arms (p1. 44, jig s. 5, 6), and legs (pr. :17, J. 4; p1. 49, jig. 2), also various kinds of hats (p1. 5o, jig. 2), and the most grotesque masks at dances and festivities, which, however, are not badly designed (fi/. 45, fig. 8).