KNITTED FABRICS—HOSIERY (Fa. Bonneterie ; GER. Strumpfwaaren, Wirkwaaren.) The adoption of coverings for the nether limbs was undoubtedly one of the latest developments of the clothier's art. By what people the custom was first introduced, is not known; and it is equally uncertain what material was first employed for the purpose. As various causes compelled some tribes of the human race to wander into temperate and cold regions, they must have found that the partial covering, which had previously sufficed for their requirements, no longer served to shield them. Hence those parts of the body which had hitherto been left uncovered, such as the arms and legs, would receive equal attention with the other portions. It is a probable conjecture, therefore, that " hose " originated with some of the nations residing in the northerly temperate latitudes.
The material first used would most likely be the skins of the smaller quadrupeds, including those of kids and lambs, to be succeeded in time by cloth of different materials, when the art of weaving had made some progress. Hose made from woven fabrics remained in general use until comparatively recent times. Woollen cloths being common, and possessing other merits to recommend them, were most naturally adopted for this purpose. Plenty of evidence exists to show that hose of this description was in general use down to the close of the 16th century, when it began to be superseded by the knitted article, which, from its superior adaptability, after its introduction, soon won universal favour.
When or by whom knitting was invented, is not known, but in manuscripts of the early pert of the 16th century, are occasional references to knitted hose, whose prices indicate that the art was then a rare accomplishment.
Of the origin of machine knitting, we have more definite particulars. The hosiery industry, as we know it now, is indebted for its existence, and probably fur its remarkable development, to the inventive genius of a clergyman, William Lee, of Calverton, near Nottinghim. His struggles in perfecting his invention appear to have almost exhausted his means before the idea received practical embodiment. Even after this was accomplished, success was far from complete. His unsuccessful endeavour to obtain the patronage of Queen Elizabeth is well known. Encouraged by promises from the King of France, he subsequently emigrated to that country, and settled at Rouen, where he endeavoured to plant the new industry. Here misfortune still followed him : his patron, Henry IV., being murdered, all his hopes of protection and favour were destroyed, and,
under increasing difficulties, be died in Paris in 1610, in a state of indigence. Subsequently, his brother James brought the machines back to England, and settled in London, where the new art soon made considerable progress. The industry grew to such an extent that, about 1650, its mem bers had become so numerous, wealthy, and influential, as to make efforts to establish a chartered company. Another motive inducing them to take this step, was the difficulty the unchartered company experienced in enforcing regulations, devised to prevent unfair competition amongst its members. These objects were realized in 1657, by the grant of a charter from Cromwell. A second charter, confirming the first, was afterwards obtained from Charles II.
It is not necessary here to trace the steps by which Lee perfected his machine, nor to detail its subsequent development in the hands of later inventors, in more than brief outline. Few were of much importance, until Jedediah Strutt added the ribbing-apparatus, in 1758. This invention enabled a ribbed web to be produced on Lee's machine, which had hitherto been able to make only a plain one, except by hand, by selecting the threads and arranging them in order to form the pattern. Derby ribbed hosiery soon raised itself into high and extensive favour, and the principle is as popular to day as ever. Sirutt's invention was followed by the improvements of Morris, Crome, and Else, which, with others, laid the foundation of the modern machine-wrought lace. The success attending the labours of Strutt, and the wealth secured by several individuals who adopted his improvements, greatly stimulated invention, and the patents taken out during the remainder of the century were numerous and important, much advancing the perfection of the machinery. An enumeration of these would be uninstructive, unless accompanied by full explanatory details, and, for this reason, they are mostly passed over. The most remarkable feature developed was the great capacity for the manufacture of fancy hosiery, which, as a consequence, became exceedingly popular. The demand for this class of goods endured until the close of the century, when the fashion began to decline in public estimation, until is point of deep depression was reached. Great sufferings were consequently entailed upon the workers for many years afterwards, a revival seldom being more than partial or temporary.