In conjunction with Edward Attenborough, W. Cotton patented further improvements in 1869; these consisted of a better general arrangement of the parts of the frame ; the construction of the thread-carriers of steel, so that the points or feed-ends might bear upon and more readily follow the course of the traverse provided for them ; and a tension arrangement for tightening the threads when passing to the carriers, in making the plain or unfashioned portion of the fabric, when the thread-carriers were at the end of their traverse, and the loops were being divided. For this pur pose, each thread was made to pass between a spring, and an arm with capability of varying— increasing or diminishing—the pressure by stationary wedge-pieces or similar means in the forward movement of the arms and springs. Extra motion was given to the shifting instruments, when they were moving for widening, proportionate to the extra strain upon them at such a time, so as to secure their standing correctly in position for the laying of the loops on the needles to which the loops were being shifted, and similarly in relieving such extra movement for narrowing. Means were likewise provided for filling up the holes otherwise left by the action of separating the loops for widening. The inventors improved the presser-bar by introducing a rib of steel into a groove in the edge of the presser, which obviated a great portion of the wear so common when the bar is composed of soft metal. Increased capability of adjustment of the movement of the needles in relation to the sinkers, so as to be able readily to vary the stiffness of the fabric during working, was also obtained ; and a further arrangement was introduced, whereby the movement of the thread carriers was controlled at the termination of their traverse, 1 y means of which, it was ensured that the thread at such times should be taken between the desired sinkers, thereby avoiding the production of bad selvages.
In 1879, Thomas Wig-field patented a method, by means of which, he claimed to produce fashioned and cleared fabrics of varying width, less than the breadth of needles, and by employing two thread carriers and carrier-slides, by the same means to produce selvaged heels ; and instead of taking away portions of the jack- and frame-sinkers, and frame- and machine-needles at each division, to produce such fabrics by employing the apparatus of which the invention consists.
About 1877, an American, Almet Reid, patented in this country an ingenious circular knitting frame, capable of automatically knitting articles of every variety of shape, such as hats, caps, Scotch bonnets, and bags. Its principal features consisted in its having the equivalent of a Jacquard motion attached ; in the capability of knitting simultaneously a greater number of threads than ordinary circular machines ; in the fact that goods produced in it are composed of loops or stitches, so locked together that, in the ordinary way, they will not unravel when cut or torn ; and lastly, a rate of production considerably exceeding that of ordinary knitting-machines.
The patent-right of the above machine was acquired in this country by a joint-stock company, and under its auspices, the principle of the above invention has been applied to a straight machine.
As constructed, this has been brought into public notice as the " straight-bar knitting-loom." It is not complicated in its parts, nor as a whole ; and can be made of any width. As it is designed to produce piece-goods, it requires to be 70-90 in. broad for wide descriptions. The needles•are set on the bar, which may be of any required gauge. A loom 72 in. wide, 9-gauge, contains 6 needles to the inch =- 432 in the width. The needle-bar has imparted to it a rapid vertical motion, of short stroke, during which, the needles rise and fall in front of and close to a bar perforated with holes, one tor each needle. Through these holes, the yarn is passed, one end in each being delivered from bobbins or a beam, as may be most convenient. Each time the needle-bar rises and falls, every needle makes one loop, and the texture is thus produced simultaneously along its whole width. Each course of loops is drawn away by a thin blade called a "wiper," possessing a reciprocating action. A pair of fluted rollers receive and pass the cloth down in front of the machine. The number of loops put in the width naturally depends upon the number of needles in the bar ; but without altering the gauge of these, the openness of the fabric can easily be varied, by altering the stroke of the needle-bar, and the rate at which the delivery and taking-up rollers operate, this being easily done in a few minutes. This variation is easily extended from 4 to 24, or any intermediate number of loops per inch, in the direction of the length of the fabric. The loops are effectually locked together, even those that form the selvage. The production from thia machine is extremely large, the driving-pulleys actuating the main-shaft, making 200 rev. a minute, with the result that each needle makes a similar number of loops or meshes. The length produced depends upon the size of the mesh ; with these 13 to the inch, working at the above rate, it produces about 15 in. of web a minute. At this rate, its production is equal to that of 10-12 ordinary power-looms, weaving woollen cloth of the same width. Upon this machine, the yarn can be used unsized, and softly spun, or containing little twist, one of the advantages claimed for it being its capability to work up soft or tender yarn unfitted for use in the ordinary loom. It is also capable of making stripes, either plain or " herring-bone," or combinations of these ; but it is not in this direction that it will ever prove a formidable rival to the ordinary loom.
This brief review of the development of the machinery of the hosiery trade brings us to the present day.
Hosiery, as generally understood, and as considered here, is a production of the art of knitting— a subdivision of the greater art of weaving. It is a process by which a series of loops are made to intersect each other, the aggregate forming a web. It can be executed by hand, by machines wrought by manual power, and by others in which steam is employed as the motor. An expert operator by hand can make about 100 loops a minute; by manual power, this number is very largely increased ; whilst in some modern machines worked by steam power, more than 300,000 loops a minute can be produced.