All circular hosiery-frames in working are liable, through knots or other irregularities in the yarn, to have their needles crossed or displaced, and thereby to " burr " or roughen the blades of the wheels. These imperfections are best removed, and the parts restored to order, by subjecting.
them to the action of the circular brushing-machine, represented in Fig. 881. Though perhaps not absolutely a necessary adjunct of a hosiery-factory, it is essential to secure a good quality of work, and a large production.
Hosiery manufacture, considering its magnitude, is distinguished by its simplicity. In rare instances only do those engaged therein spin the yarn they consume. The latter is generally ready far the hosiery winding-frame as it comes from the spinner, and being next supplied to the knitter, is fabricated into an article so perfect as to require but very little further treatment in the finishing processes.
The first in the series of finishing-machines, is the calendering-press, Fig. 882, used for rolling or calendering all circular hose, preparatory to cutting the feet. In this class of hose, a sufficient length is woven or knit in the frame in one piece to form a pair. These lengths are drawn upon a board, with the exception of about 1 in., which is left overhanging at the end. This part is presented to the calender-rollers, which, as they are rapidly revolving, seize it, and draw off the board the length of web ; this, in its passage, is subjected to heavy pressure, and made to assume and retain the required form sufficiently long to undergo the next operation. As it emerges from the pressing-rollers, each length is received by an attendant girl, and laid in lots of a dozen each, in which quantities they are passed to the cutter.
Common hosiery, woven in the tubular form in double lengths, requires to be cut in a peculiar manner, in order to form the foot with comparative neatness and facility. The tube is first cut transversely half-way through, then longitudinally on each side for a distance of about 16-18 in., and the separation of the two portions is then effected by a transverse cut like the first. Each length then consists of equally-sized portions of hosiery web, about one-half of_ each part being tubular, and the remainder a longitudinal section of the same, flattened out. This cutting process
is accurately and quickly performed on the machine shown in Fig. 883, which is so constructed as to cut with facility 100 doz. an hour.
All frame hosiery, whether of the best or low qualities, requires more or less mending and finishing, by band, sewing-machine, or looping frame, by which the joining of the parts is effected more neatly than by the other ruder process. These finishers are usually women and girls, who are denominated "mend em " and " searncrs." By long practice, they become very expert and swift, and the various articles pass through their hands with sur prising expedition.
After the menders and finishers have disposed of them, the last pro cess previous to making up into dozens, or " boxing," in the case of fancy articles, is " hat pressing," which gives a certain degree of per manency to the form of the article.
The steam-heated press, Fig. 884, is the means by which this is accomplished. Its construction is exceedingly simple. Both the table and the top are cast with a series of passages through them into which the steam enters and circulates, and by which a great heat is obtained. Common tubular hose are drawn upon shaping-boards singly, and a dozen of these are put into the press together. A few moments' subjection to the heat and pressure is all that is necessary to give the desired shape, and while one set is undergoing treatment, another is being prepared. Fashioned goods, such as pants, shirts, hose, half-hose, &c., are treated in the same manner.
The commercial centres of the hosiery trade are Leicester and Nottingham, the former dealing chiefly in worsted goods, and the latter in cotton and merino articles, the last word being technically employed to indicate a mixture of cotton and wool. Each town is surrounded by a number of smaller places, in which much of the business of production is carried on the articles being subsequently sent to the above centres respectively.