The thread is supplied in a continuous length from a large bobbin, but it will be evident that the substitution of different kinds or qualities during the progress of the work can be easily accom plished according to requirement. The width of the web is also varied as may be needed, accord ing as the thread is carried over a greater or less number of needles of the series. A stocking-web is thus shaped or " fashioned " in its different parts, before it is sewn or looped together in Ls subsequent stage.
Such is the simple process of forming a looped fabric, which is essentially the same in all machines. A single thread may he used as described, or a considerable number, called "feeders," as in rotary machines, by which the production is enormously. increased. Or, a thread may be used to each needle ; when this is the case, the bobbins are arranged in a creel, or if preferred, the yarn is put upon a beam.
By means of a pin or hook, the loops upon one needle may easily be transferred to the next, or even a more distant one, without detriment to the fabric. Advantage has been taken of this to form patterns of great variety and beauty. So made, the product is called "lace hosiery," and though not much in vogue at present, it has formerly been very popular. A pin or point, called a "tickler " needle, fixed in a small handle, is used to effect the transfer.
Tickler-points have been introduced into machines in equal number to the needles. In these cases, they arc arranged in a movable bar opposite the hooks. By advancing the bar, the needles are inserted into the loops ; being then raised and moved to the right or left, which is called " shogging," they deposit the loop upon the needle adjoining, or such other as may be required for the pattern.
Besides tickler needles, other descriptions can be used with advantage. Strutt's invention was of this character, being the introduction of a second series Of needles, by which the loops from any desired number of needles could be reversed, and narrow or wide ribs be made, from which the attachment received the name of the "Derby rib machine." Nearly all classes of looped fabrics are now made with facility on the improved machines which are worked by power, and by which the production is largely increased, prices are lowered, and the consumption is greatly stimulated. Though hosiery goods are now obtained at lower prices than at any former time, yet the operative hosier earns more money than probably at any time in the previous history of the trade.
The following illustrations, for which, indebtedness is acknowledged to Blackburn and Atten borough, of Nottingham, will serve to show the present construction of tho best hosiery machinery now being made.
Fig. 876 is a representa tion of Cotton's self-acting, fashioning hose-machine, which fashions the leg and makes cleared fashioned heels. The frame is gene rally constructed to pro duee eight webs at once, two in each section, as ishown. All the movements are automatic, and iu principle are the same as previously described. Making a 30-gauge web, and working 54 hours a week, an average produc tion of 70 doz. pairs of hose is easily obtained on two machines by n man and a boy, whilst with extra good superintendence, 80 doz. is possible.
It is well to premise hero that stockings are not usually completed on one machine, the ribbed top being made on one frame, the leg on another, and the foot on a third, the different parts being joined subsequently.
A footing-maehine is made ou the same principle as the preceding, and when constructed to make 18 feet at ones—the usual dimen sions—with one man su perintending, assisted by a girl to run the heels and insteps upon the trans ferring or running-ou bars, it will average a produc tion of 100 doz. pairs of feet a week, working on the same gauge, and the same number of hours a week as the preceding, with a possible 120 doz.
This machine, though the term of its 14 years' patent right has nearly expired, with the nume rous improvements that have been added, is still by far the best in the market for fashioned hosiery goods, no competitor coming near it in the estimation of the trade. Its price, including the royalty to the patentees, is about 2501.
The same machine, with the necessary cations, is used for making men's fashioned drawers; and two of them, each making four at once, superintended by a man and a boy, in 54 hours produce 26 doz. pairs. For shirt-bodies, and fashioned sleeves, it is equally well adapted ; two of them, each making four at once of the former, will pro duce 40 doz. as the result of the above number of hours' work ; or 70 doz. fashioned sleeves in the same time. In addition to making plain or fashioned goods, as described, with the patented improvements or attachments held by Lamb and Lee, of Nottingham, they are capable of making odd or even courses, irregular striped work, cheviones, fancy welts with spliced heels, knee-caps, and the seats or pockets of pants or drawers ; also 3-4 end stripes.