SHORT HAIR. Mixing.—Following the short hair, the next process is "mixing "—making a blend of certain proportions of horse-, cow-, and pig-hair, according to the quality of the article intended to be produced. Of these there are many, and the prices range proportionately from 6d. to 2s. a lb. When the blends have been properly laid down, the material is passed through a series of " willows," by which the different sorts are thoroughly incorporated, becoming homogeneous as far as mechanical admixture can produce such a state. After passing through the third of these machines, it is beaten and screened, to clear away the dust created by this treatment, and is then ready for the curling process.
Curling.—" Curling" is carried on in a separate room, called the curling-room. The curlers spin the hair into ropes or strands, by the aid of a machine similar to that employed in rope-spinning. The rope is further twisted in a second operation, by which means it is reduced to half its first length. By a third process, it is twined until it assumes a oonvolute form, IT heu it is secured as a ooil. These processes give to the hair its peculiar curl, which fits it for the purpose to which it is applied—" stuffing " for the seats of chairs, sofas, &c. But were it, at this stage, to be untwisted and used, the curl would soon be lost. It requires to be " fixed " in this condition, which is accom pliahod by the following treatment. The coils are immersed in cold water, and allowed to stand for several hours. On removal from this, they are placed in specially constructed ovens, which are heated to a very high temperature. After subjection to this heat for a sufficient time, the "curl " is permanently fixed ; and the germs of all parasitic life are destroyed.
When the process of " baking " is finished, the hair has become a marketable article, and is sold either in the form of "hard curl," as removed from the ovens ; as "soft curl," in which it is partially untwisted ; or " towsed," in which the filaments are separated ready for use.
The comparatively high price of hair, whether of the horse, ox, or bog, has led to the search for cheaper substitutes. Of these, two have been utilized to a considerable extent, namely "Mexican fibre," which is very similar in appearance to hair ; and " vegetable horse-hair," a product of Algeria, and known as crin (see Fibrous Substances — Chainwrops dumilis ; Sidalariung kwalas). The importation of the latter article has become considerable during the past 20 years, as it is extensively used in stuffing the lower qualities of furniture, either alone or in conjunction with hair. It is prepared and dyed in the localities of production, and is imported into this country in the form of hair ropes, to which it bears likeness. Neither of these articles, however, possess a tithe of the durability of real hair, and would not call for notice in this place were it not that they are made to simulate the latter.
Lorra Hare.—The long hair is applied to the manufacture of brushes and fishing-lines, but chiefly to that of hair cloth for upholstery purposes.
Hackling and Drawing.—After having been thoroughly cleansed, as stated before, it is combed by drawing the bunches through fixed combs, like flax-Lackles, which work is done by boys, It is next drawn into different lengths and thicknesses, which is an important and tedious operation, requiring both delicacy of touch and quickness of eye. Those lengths range from 14 in. to 35 in. This work is performed by hand, though attempts have recently been made to accomplish the draw ing automatically. Black hair is subjected to further treatment, in order to obtain a full glossy blackness. White is bleached, in order to diminish the yellowish tint which is its natural hue ; but this is never perfectly removed. English hair affords the best white, that obtained from foreign sources never yielding as clear a colour. It is also variously dyed by makers of coloured damask seating.