There are two other forms of power-loom, which are considerably easier to work, being simpler in construction. The least complicated is Henderson's. In this loom, the picker is attached to the end of the rod which draws the hair through the warp, and thus dispenses with the separate picking-apparatus of the Pawtucket loom. The arrangement for raising the warp threads is also much simpler, and less liable to get out of order ; and another very important improvement is that the thick and thin ends of the hair are presented to the picker alternately. One end of a hair being very much thicker than the other, it is obvious that, if it were all laid in the warp the same way, one edge of the cloth would appear much stouter than the other; to obviate this, the hair for use is put into two holders, one presenting the thick ends to the picker, and the other the thin ends. An arrangement is made by which these holders oscillate, and so come alternately opposite the picker. In the Pawtucket loom, the hair is mixed, and the picker takes up thick or thin hairs at hazard, which destroys the beauty of the surface by making it appear streaky. In addition, it may be mentioned that a loom for weaving hair has been patented by Samuel Laycock and Sons, Sheffield, in which is incorporated Lyall's positive motion principle: In this loom, the hairs are taken from each side alternately. It seems, however, still to present a few practical difficulties.
The texture of hair cloths, with the exception of the fancy fabrics previously referred to, is chiefly that of a satinette armure or weave, by which the warp is quite hidden from view, only the bright glossy hair being perceptible to the sight or touch.
(See Hair; Woollen Manufactures—Worsted.) R. M.
HATS (Fa., Chapeaux ; GER., Hilts).
The feature which distinguishes the " hat " from other forms of head-dress is the possession of a brim. Hate are principally of two kinds—felt, and silk ; these will receive separate description.
Felt Hats.—The production of felt must have taken place in the earliest times, the combined action of friction and moisture upon wool, and most kinds of fur and hair, being sufficient to form a felt. Such fabrics for clothing purposes long preceded woven goods. Felt hats for both sexes have been known in England for nearly years. At the commencement of the present century, the trade was located in Lancashire, Cheshire, Warwickshire, and London. The stringent rules of the Hat-makers' Association had the effect of keeping the trade in a very few hands, and the exclusive use of manual labour rendered the production so small as not to suffice even for home needs. The more recent application of machinery to almost every branch of the manufacture has permitted m singularly rapid development, and the felt hat trade must now rank among the principal industries of the country.
MaNuFacrunz.—The basis of the "common" and "medium" kinds of hat is wool. It is im portant to select a sound and clean wool, whether washed or unwashed ; dirty and broken wools must be avoided at any price, as being certain to produce bad results. Superior effects are produced
from a mixture of several kinds of wool. Those preferred are "blue Cape," " Port Philip," and "Sydney " lamb, and such as are of medium staple, and capable of affording a soft and close fabric. Those wools, unwashed, are carefully mixed, in proportions varying according to the particular product desired.
mixing having been completed, the wool is passed into the " opener," shown in Fig. 805. This machine performs the office of scavenger, opening the fibre of the wool, ejecting all loose sand and dirt, and preparing it for the "washer." At the bottom of the cylinder B, is a grid, through which the teeth in the cylinder play; within the cover A, shown raised in the illustration, other teeth are firmly fixed, through which the teeth of the cylinder pass, drawing the wool through the fixed teeth at the top, and acting the part of a rude comb. Care should be taken not to choke the machine with too much wool in feeding, and not to put the arms in too far. Baying placed the wool in the machine, the workman lowers the lid A, until it covers the aperture down to C, and allows time for the wool to be passed through the teeth of the machine. Then, without stopping it., ho gathers the wool in his arms, and places it in a large basket. Such a quantity is passed through as will serve for one operation of the washing-machine, described in detail in the article on Woo].
Washing.—Single and double machines are in use, according to the consumption of the manu facturer. If the single one with three rakes and lift be used, it will require the pan to be charged with soap and scour (caustic soda). These articles ought to be in a state of solution in two separate vats, the usual proportions being 1 lb. of soap, and the same quantity of scour, to every gallon of hot water. Much will depend upon the state of the wool : if very dirty, more soap and caustic soda will be required to effect a thorough cleansing of the fibre. A little experience will soon determine the most effectual method of washing. The water must not be boiling in the machine, or the staple of the wool will be made knotty and harsh, giving much trouble in the after process. A thin layer of wool is placed upon the travelling brat in front of the machine, and intro duced iu exact proportion to what the squeezing-rollers will take with ease, all the wool having previously passed through the hot water and scour. The howl of the machine ought to be cleaned out, the wool that is left behind being taken out of the dirt, and sent through the machine with the next mixing. The washed wool is passed again through a warm bath with a little soap, and will then be ready for carding. There is great economy, where the consumption is large, in pro viding a double machine ; the first part will contain the strong scouring-liquor, and the wool, having passed through the first set of squeezers, continues to be washed in the second bowl, and finally passes out ready in one operation to the carding-engines, after having undergone a little drying.