This machine, known as the "No. 1 hardener," is perhaps the least complicated, and certainly the most approved by all manufacturers for a large production with little labour. It is suitable for all medium wool hats. For the purpose of hardening fine wool and fur hats, recourse is had to the "No. 2" machine, known also as the "cup and cone hardener." With the low class and medium wools, the staple is not so easily thrown out of shape, nor injUriously affected by pressure and steam, as the finer sorts. There fore the No. 1 hardener should be used by all persona engaged in the common and medium trade. Fine wool under pressure in the No. 1 machine would flatten out too large, so much so that a large quantity of work would be spoiled, for it could never be felted down to the requisite size to make good work. The aim of the manufacturer using the finer material is to confine the hood, to prevent its expanding too much. If he can once concentrate it by hardening the felt to a proper size, his object is easily gained. The No. 2 hardener, Fig. 810, effects this completely, and is the best machine for this class of work.
In making fine wool hats, the same processes of carding, &c., are to be followed, the workmen acting precisely as with the No. 1 machine, so far as regards the hardening of the bodies and making them sound. The difference in working will easily be understood on reference to Fig. 810. A is a driving-shaft, revolving the upright spindles surmounted by the cones C. These last are covered by linen cloths. B is a table for supporting the cover D, into which steam is injected for hardening the body, and gives the workmen easy access for removing the form. Setting the cone C in motion the hood is placed over it ; when evenly placed, the cover D is pressed upon the hood, con fining it on all aides. The chain that passes over the lever E keeps constantly lifting the top cover with a spring, the under cone re volving ; thus the wool is settled down, and hardened evenly on all sides simul taneously, the tips included. No portion of the wool escapes pressure, it being confined on all sides at once. The ma chine is peculiarly fitted for all finer materials, and is absolutely necessary for the class of work just described. The hoods thus burdened go into the next department, which will be described presently. It will be convenient first to describe the process of forming the finest fur hoods, ready for the hardening-machine, in order that all qualities may be taken together into the " planking-room." Furs for Hatting.—Fur for bat-making purposes must be most carefully prepared and sorted. The furs principally used at present in the manufacture of fine goods are coney or hare, and rabbit, the best qualities coming from northern countries (see Fur). The first process the fur undergoes Is " carroting," which consists in applying to it a solution of 32 parte mercury in 500 parts com mercial aqua fortis (nitric acid). The object of this is to render its felting easier, and to avoid the excessive use of acids iu the subsequent operation of planking. Much experience will be required in selecting fur, to avoid that which is defective in quality, and to detect that which is rotten. This
is a most difficult matter, and one of the best safeguards is to purchase from none but first-class firms. The skins are taken into a hot room to dry, are sorted into qualities known in commerce as "back," "belly," and " side," and are finally made up in bundles and sold by the lb., the price varying from about 5s. to 20s. It should be noted that hare-skins have a solution of arsenic applied to them before the fur is removed, to prepare it for felting. The choicest qualities of hat are produced from beaver-fur ; commoner ones from otter and musk-rat. An excellent felt for hat-making pur poses is made from the fur of a large species of water-rat, a native of S. America, and more than a million skins are annually exported from that continent for the purpose.
Fur-blowing.—After selecting the class of fur suitable for the manufacture of the goods desired, it is taken to a room adapted for the blowing-machine, Fig. 811, which separates the hairs from each other. This machine consists of three parts : an apparatus for bringing the hair, a conduit pipe, and a &amber or series of chambers. The hair is first conveyed on an endless belt of cloth A, provided with fans, and is blown into the first chamber B. This is furnished with a glass window, through which the fur can be seen kept in violent commotion by the wind from the fans. The finer hairs adhere together, and pass along from one chamber to another, the finest being carried farthest, while the coarse and unsuitable qualities fall into boxes at the bottom of the first chambers.
Fur-forming.—The fur-former, Fig. 812, is next brought into use. The " stock" or" blown hair," as it is termed, is weighed out in the exact quantities required to form one hat, and is placed upon a travelling "brat " or " apron " A, by which it is carried between two horizoutal feeding-rollers, covered with felt, and is immediately seized by a cylinder, making about 3000 rev. a minute, and furnished with several longitudinal lines of stiff brushes. This generates a current of air, and scatters the stook, blowing it out through a vertical slot B, at the farther end of the machine. A thin stream of hairs is thus ejected against the cone C, which is made of copper, perforated with small boles, and revolves on a vertical axis. A strong current of air is produced by an exhaust-fan or air-pump, placed within the cone, thereby assisting the fur in attaching itself to the cone C. During the operation, the cone and its covering, are kept constantly moistened with water. The revolution of the cone on its axis soon causes it to be uniformly covered with a fine felted fabric. The slot B can be regulated by means of a sliding-board, the manipulation of which enables the operator to direct the stream of hair to any desired part of the cone C. An extra quantity can be placed upon the brim if wanted, or the whole hat can be formed of even thickness ; this is as much at the discretion of the operator as in the wool-former.