Carding.—The wool brought from the wash, and dried until containing only very little moisture, is taken to a small "opener," like the one used in the first process before washing. This fully prepares it for carding. Small manufacturers use single carding-engines for breaking up the wool first, and then take it through a second engine, before which the hat-former is placed, and where the form is completed. Large manufacturers find it more economical to use double machines, so as to complete the hat-forming in one process, the machine being placed at the end of the double engine. In Fig. 806, A is a travelling " brat," for taking the wool on to the first roller B, called the " liekor-in"; this, on the breaking-engine, carries the wool in across the whole width of the machine. This first roller B, running at a high velocity, is covered with small stout wire teeth, which throw the wool on to the large central cylinder C. As a rule, this is made of iron, cast in one piece, turned very true, and where the casting has been drawn from the moulder's sand, strips of iron are bolted to the thin side, to make up the difference iu weight between it and the thick one, thus preserving a perfect balance; otherwise, the high speed at which the cylinder runs is a cause of expansion, and pro duces such an irregular motion as to endanger the machine. It is therefore most important that all card ing-cylinders should be ex actly balanced, to run with the greatest smoothness.
The cylinder C is clothed with small wire teeth, set in rubber strips, about 2 in. wide, the first cut in a slanting direction to a very fine point, and all nailed on with small tinned - tacks, driven into wooden pegs that are in serted in holes drilled in the cylinder for the purpose. After all has been covered, the card teeth are ground true and sharp by an emery wheel, driven from fixings on the side, and adjusted until it bears upon the teeth. The grinding is done by driviog the cylinder C in a. reverse direction. All the other rollers are covered with teeth in the same manner ; but separate machines are used for the purpose. A central emery wheel carries one card roller on each side. As there is an inde pendent feed motion at each end of a grinding-frame, the wire can be ground to a dead face and sharp. Setting these rollers on the card requires the utmost care, to prevent the wire from catching, or coming into direct contact with the cylinder or the other rollers. All being square, and ground up true on the face of the wire, the wool is thrown by the large cylinder C to the first roller D. The small roller E, called a "clearer," is driven by a small strap from the larger roller D, and almost in contact with it, and by its much higher velocity clears the wool from D. The wool is taken from E by the next roller, cleared by the corresponding one, and so on throughout the series, being lastly placed upon the " doffer " F. In front of F, is fixed a comb G,
running at a high speed, and stripping the wool from the doffer as fine as a gossamer web.
Forming.—A hat forming-machine, Fig. 807, is planed in front of this doffer, at right angles to the position it occupies in the illustration, and the wool is so adjusted at the back of the card by two wooden guides, as to bring a web about 12-14 in. wide for the use of the " former." A very steady feed is requisite to make a good even form, free from the knots produced by bad carding. The person tending the machine takes the wool as it comes from the engine, guid ing it with the hand to the cone marked C. This cone is made of tin or wood, of the most con venient size for the hat to be made, allowing about 5-7 in.
greater length or width than the hat is wanted to possess in the finished state. Note well in making cones that the ends are never too sharply tapered, be cause the hood in every subsequent process of making requires to he opened at this point, and a sharp taper prevents the blocker from " unbuttoning " the tip in a proper manner, frequently spoiling more finished work than any other cause. The cone, being independent of the machine, may be of any required size. It is laid upon A, which are four tapered rollers, driven by bevel-wheels beneath; its weight, resting upon the revolving rollers, induces an opposite revolution in the cone itself. Adjustable screws enable the rollers to be raised or lowered, to fit the various sizes of cones. A foot-lever at B takes the wheels out of gear, by which the wool is made to run straight upon the centre of the cone C. When the machine is in gear, the rollers have a right and left radiating motion, revolving at the same time. Taking the wool or " sliver " from the engine with the hand, the operator passes it over the cone C; the machine making this peculiar motion, performs the lapping upon the two ends of the cone alternately, after the manner of winding a cord upon a stick. While guiding the wool as it passes over the ends of the cone, care should be taken not to allow the web to double itself, as this will make bad work. A little experience will indicate how many turns to take before lifting the machine out of gear, when, the wool running straight, the ends of the cone C are left without web, and it is run into the centre, according to the strength of brim required for the hat, after which, the machine is placed in gear again, and sufficient laps are added to make up the weight of hat wanted. A pair of shears are slipped through the web into the groove E, about in. deep, which serves to guide the cutting straight ; when cut through, each hood is taken off, weighed exactly, and pared at the edges if too heavy.